Auctions A Crazy Prototype Patek Philippe Aquanaut
This is one of the more odd stories I’ve pursued down in some time. At the point when I originally discovered this watch in the inventory for Antiquorum’s upcoming Geneva deal (happening this Saturday, May 11), I was certain it must be a phony. That is to say, take a gander at it! A treated steel Patek Philippe Aquanaut model that really says “model” directly on the dial? How is it possible that that would be genuine? However, at that point I began conversing with specialists, asking authorities their opinion, and it turns out we may be taking a gander at something really exceptional here. Agreement is that this one of a kind Aquanaut is the genuine article – or possibly mostly the genuine deal.
The Aquanaut dispatched back in 1997 with the reference 5060. It’s difficult to appreciate today, however presenting a 36mm hardened steel watch with a programmed development and an elastic tie was something wild for Patek Philippe to do in those days. The 1990s were not the all-Nautilus-all that days we’re encountering now, and this was by a long shot the most easygoing and approachable watch Patek had at any point made. Later we’d get the ref. 5165 Aquanaut, the first in the bigger “Kind sized” size, and afterward we’d see a flood of complications and varieties included along with everything else. Watches like the movement time ref. 5164A , the 5968A chronograph , and even the new 5168G in khaki green are fan top picks and commonly come with years-long waitlists.
The standard creation form of the Aquanaut ref. 5060A.
The watch we have here is a model Aquanaut 5060A, yet not one like any 5060A that you’ve seen previously. Normally these watches just show the time and date, yet this model has a force save up at 11:30. This is on the grounds that the development inside is a type 330/196, which was additionally utilized in the Nautilus ref. 3710 (which has an indistinguishable dial format). The 330/196 never really made it into the Aquanaut, with the more essential type 330 SC stepping in for the last creation adaptation of the 5060A all things being equal. Indeed, even from that point forward, we’ve never seen an Aquanaut with a force save marker like this, and to the extent anybody realizes this is the solitary model with such a development and show. Discussing that development, it’s exceptionally marked as well. Directly close to the 330/196 etching it peruses “LABO No.04,” showing that it was likely important for an exploratory batch.
The dial is another component that contrasts from what you’ll discover in a standard-issue 5060A. There’s no lattice design in the middle, and the external track is significantly more unpretentious, with applied glowing markers at the hours. The hands resemble those you’ll discover on different Nautilus models, not the more extensive set that you regularly see on Aquanauts. Stepped directly underneath the Patek Philippe signature at four o’clock is “Model” taking all things together its worth adding magnificence. My #1 thing here is that you can unmistakably see the way that the Aquanaut outgrew the Nautilus item family, getting somewhat of an inside gander at how Patek adjusted and changed things to at last give the model its own particular plan language.
Note the exceptional code on the development over the type number.
Now, similar to I said, when I previously saw this watch I accepted it was either a through and through phony or something not exactly great. Would Patek truly put “model” on the dial that way? On the off chance that this is genuine, for what reason is it sort of covered in an Antiquorum index as opposed to getting pride-of-place as a cover part? I began making a few inquiries, checking in with people who are undeniably more in-contact with the Patek market and the watchmaker’s internal intrigues than I am, and the outcomes astonished me.
Over the course of the most recent week or something like that, I’ve conversed with a blend of vendors, authorities, and specialists, every one of whom addressed me depending on the prerequisite that they could stay anonymous here. No one needs to get in a battle including Patek Philippe and Antiquorum, and in light of current circumstances. I completely expected to get a ton of “stay away” reactions, yet sentiments appear to be substantially more changed and nuanced than that.
The dial has certain components from the Nautilus, just as the “Model” designation.
The initial not many individuals I talked with vouched wholeheartedly for the watch, saying that while it very well may be unusual it looks right and doesn’t appear to be especially off-putting. With Aquanaut and Nautilus assortment where they’re at nowadays, those specialists anticipate that this watch should go for enormous cash – far over the CHF 50,000 to 80,000 gauge. One master supported a piece, saying that while he thinks most about the watch is right (about 80% in his assessment), he doesn’t care for that the dial is stepped “Model” while the case isn’t. That doesn’t make the watch “terrible,” however it makes it imperfect.
The most intriguing thing I heard during my examination was talk that Patek Philippe asked with Antiquorum about buying the watch inside and out in front of the deal. The costs cited back was considered unsatisfactory and the brand wound up saying no thanks to it – though they likewise wouldn’t give a concentrate from the file or some other solid confirmation regarding the watch’s accuracy. Once more, this is talk presented by a source that requested obscurity, so it ought to be taken with a grain of salt.
This is not normal for some other Aquanaut ever made.
Only one individual I talked with appeared to be by and large distrustful of the watch, saying that they wouldn’t support anybody in their circle to offer, and for different reasons. They aren’t positive about the dial printing and, much seriously alarming, they have worries about the watch’s provenance. In the event that it’s a genuine model and ought to be property of Patek Philippe, would the production not seek after a title guarantee after the sale? That has happened before, and however there have been blended outcomes (remembering a well known occurrence for which the purchaser of a model Rolex won the option to keep his new buy) it’s not something I figure forthcoming purchasers will need to need to stress about.
Ultimately, watches like this ask however many inquiries as they answer, and I feel that is something beneficial for the watch gathering community on the loose. They make us question our suppositions, they make us delve further into grant, and they cause us to ask inquiries concerning what we esteem and for what good reason. That delivers a seriously intriguing business sector and more discourse around watch gathering all the more by and large – and ideally some compelling sale results too.
This watch is Lot 276 in the upcoming Antiquorum Geneva deal, occurring on Saturday, May 11. It conveys a gauge of CHF 50,000 to 80,000, however it’s difficult to truly know where this one will wind up. This watch could neglect to hit its low gauge or sell for a huge number of Swiss francs. We’ll simply need to sit back and watch. Look at the full index here.