Bring a Loupe A Rolex Explorer Ref. 6610, A Movado M90 Chronograph With Breguet Numerals, And A Tropical Breitling Navitimer AOPA Ref. 806
Interesting patina and target extraordinariness are the situation this week. In this installment of Bring A Loupe, you’ll discover picks like a seldom-seen Movado chronograph including Breguet numerals, notwithstanding an uncommon and early Rolex Explorer with possibly prominent provenance. With an end goal to shed all the more light on square-cased watches, there’s another fairly stunning Movado, again with Breguet numerals on its patina-hefty dial, plus a Universal Genève that enjoys a tender epithet. Here we go!
Universal Genève 'Cioccolatone' Ref. 10239/1
“Watch collectorese” is quite possibly the most fascinating and clever dialects, and I end up being conversant in it. This globally understood tongue is comprised of a small bunch of languages, a seemingly endless number of esoteric abbreviations, and seeing as it’s 2019, hashtags have now entered the blend. Given the taste making notoriety Italian collectors appreciate , it makes amazing sense that some of the best watch gathering terms hail from that boot-shaped country. In a past installment of Bring A Loupe, we discussed the Ovettone, and with that far removed, it’s time we proceed onward to another linguistic curiosity that is similarly as enjoyable to say. Enter the Cioccolatone!
You might’ve known about this one preceding, however for the unenlightened, permit me to play translator. Cioccolatone are square-shaped timepieces, prominently created by Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, and Omega, among others. With wide bezels and gently adjusted corners, they bear an unmistakable resemblance to the little chocolates you may have been fortunate enough to get from a special someone last Thursday. In a world that is certainly overwhelmed by round wristwatches, I thought we’d investigate one of my number one takes on the Cioccolatone, created by Universal Genève.
What you’re taking a gander at is the ref. 10239/1, and an especially sharp looking model at that. I’ve always cherished the incorporation of a round dial and crystal into a square case, especially when it’s executed as tastefully as such. With a motor turned bezel, thick lugs, and an applied Universal Genève logo, this reference will undoubtedly hold your interest for quite a long time to come, just as it dazzled me at first sight. I’m guessing this model has possibly been polished at some point, though the case still remains thick, and has what appears to be an import trademark. The dial also looks to be really perfect, and with a fast polishing of the crystal, the full degree of its excellence will be unleashed. This is certainly a case of “awful pictures, decent watch.”
An eBay seller based out of Cold Spring, New York, has this piece listed with a starting offer of $950. Follow this connect to try making it your own.
Movado M90 Chronograph
Watches are frequently described as undervalued trying to stimulate the market and produce interest, however realize that when I use the term, it’s simply because I think something is absolutely cool and very many are sleeping on it. There’s no point being worked here – just a watch obsessed geek who wants to share some insights and nerd out somewhat over wrist-mounted trinkets. For quite a while, Movado could’ve been described as overlooked, yet doubtlessly the masses are becoming increasingly more hip to the genius that lies in the company’s initial watchmaking efforts.
The brand created a wide scope of Calatrava style pieces and more complicated calendars, though the chronographs have always been the primary fascination in my book. Both the type M90 and M95 were trailblazers in the realm of chronograph creation, as they highlighted a slightly measured construction which hadn’t been broadly endeavored at the hour of their release. They also end up being some of the smartest glancing in-house chronograph calibers, with engineering like no other, making them genuinely deserving of your interest and attention.
These chronographs are rapidly becoming staples of the vintage watch gathering mainstream, with prominent closeout results and all to back them up, and as a result, it’s become tougher to discover desirable variants which fly under the radar. I do understand that by including this Breguet numeral fitted, M90-prepared chronograph in this week’s gathering, I’m essentially making it an outsider mothership sized blip on the radar, however alas, it was too cool to not share with you. Though its dial may be less than great, the different scales, blued steel hands, and subtle Movado marking are truly special. M90 chronographs of this size are also very uncommon, so it has that making it work as well.
This Movado is being offered by an eBay seller in Miami, Florida. At the hour of publishing the offering stands at $719. Locate the full listing here.
Rolex Explorer Ref. 6610
I strongly accept that the 36mm Rolex Explorer is the greatest sports observe at any point made. Regardless of whether you set aside their commended history and contribution in countless feats of human accomplishment, the watch itself stands all alone as a titan of design. The case proportions are simply awesome and the dials aren’t anything if not decipherable, making for a through and through versatile and to-the-point watch that is fiercely versatile. Courageously traversing a mountain range? You’re set. Dark tie undertaking soon thereafter? Still great to go.
Though the long running ref. 1016 is likely what most vintage watch collectors consider when 36mm Explorers are brought up, I will in general incline toward the prior ref. 6610, which you’d be pardoned for mistaking for a 1016. This reference supplanted the ref. 6150 – another almost indistinguishable looking Explorer – and consolidated the fresher type 1030 development, which had a slimmer caseback than its predecessor. Certain examples were even fitted with dials sporting red profundity ratings, alongside white seconds hands, making a through and through really compelling esthetic. The one in question today features such a seconds hand, and looks to be a first rate specimen in the event that I do say so myself. While the case has almost absolutely been polished, the dial is quite spotless, and all the applications of luminous radium have matured uniformly. This is the thing that an honest watch looks like.
Furthermore, you’ll notice that the caseback has been engraved with the name A.D. Henderson. Being the insatiable research addict that I am, I normally consulted the interwebs to discover precisely who this character was, and figure I may have just sorted it out. A snappy search of the name pointed me toward the Henderson genealogical record, in which there are numerous A.D. Hendersons. Given the age of the watch, I’d peril a guess that this piece could’ve had a place with Alexander Dawson Henderson Jr., who was one of the main impetuses behind the immediate selling magnificence company Avon. While it can’t be affirmed with absolute conviction that this is the same A.D. Henderson, I believe it’s imaginable, and will post further findings down in the comments should I come across anything of note.
This illustration of the ref. 6610 will be offered one week from now by Sterling Vault Auctioneers in the English town of Farnham. The estimate has been set at £16,000–18,000, though bids starting at £12,000 are now being acknowledged. Look at the listing here.
Tropical Breitling Navitimer AOPA Ref. 806
The 1960s were an incredible time for chronograph design. While cases grew somewhat greater and numerous dials got a smidgen more outlandish, chronographs were still purpose-constructed mechanisms for requesting professionals whose livelihoods relied upon the exactness of their instruments. Breitling is notable for their history of supplying pilots with chronographs – most outstandingly, the unbelievable Navitimer, with its several scales and special bezel that considered precise calculations while uncertain. Though I may have shared ref. 806s I’ve come across in the past, I don’t think I’ve shared one as extraordinary and unique as the one we’re going to investigate. Lock in and plan for liftoff.
As previously referenced, this is a ref. 806 Navitimer, which is pretty much the prototype Navitimer that will come to the minds of endless supply of the model’s name. Where it strays from the standard is in the manner that its dial has matured, to a chocolate tropical tone. Examples of the 806 have been known to accomplish tropical status over years of wear and exposure to the elements, though this is without a doubt one of the more tropical examples I’ve seen. On the off chance that the dial wasn’t enough to persuade you here, direct your focus toward the stainless steel case, which remains unpolished and crisp to this very day.
Its seller has hit the nail directly on the head when he states that it’s a “period capsule” watch, so much so that it even includes the first Breitling strap that the watch was presumably sold on (not the strap you see in the photograph above, coincidentally). Should you be on the lookout for a 806, I recommend you both start and end your search with this watch. The striking presence of the reference is just intensified by its tropical dial, making this model a genuine stand-out piece.
This piece is presently listed available to be purchased on Instagram, with an asking cost of $12,000. Discover it here.
Movado Square w/Breguet Numerals
After coming across that first Movado up above, I was fortunate enough to stumble upon another model that also features Breguet numerals. In contrast to the previously referenced chronograph, what we have here tracks just the hours, minutes, and seconds, yet all inside an uncommon square case. Plus the watch just happens to be controlled by another gorgeous type. In the event that my insight into Movado calibers serves me effectively, this is the cal. 150MN, which, similar to the cal. M90, is an incredible stunner. I’ve always been enamored with the bulbous shape of the bridges in particular.
With that said, the fundamental fascination here is without question the dial. Though it may have left the plant looking white or perhaps silver, it has matured over the long haul to adequately coordinate the custard tone of the luminous applications, which you’ll discover in both the blued steel hands and on the dial’s Breguet numerals. The focal point of the dial, be that as it may, looks must have been delivered with an alternate finish, given how it hasn’t matured as significantly, making for a pleasing contrast.
This piece also has one of the really interesting case designs I’ve seen in some time. On one or the other side of the square case, you’ll find sliding steel components, which run along a track, securing the caseback. Early alternatives to customary case designs never neglect to astonish me, as they mirror the inspired eagerness to evaluate groundbreaking ideas that ostensibly characterized watchmaking during the 1940s. All things considered, this is a fiercely interesting watch, that with the correct strap could be an outstanding sight to see on your wrist.
Should you be interested, take a stab at offering on eBay, where this piece is being offered by a seller out of Billings, Montana. The initial offer is set at $300. Snap here for the full scoop.