Bring a Loupe An Olympic Seiko, A Deep-Diving Girard-Perregaux, And A First-Execution Heuer Autavia
As you’ll soon see, it’s been an extraordinary week in the realm of vintage watches, with a host of interesting pieces spreading the word about themselves for the gathering scene. Thanks to the inclusion of a first-execution Ref. 2446 Autavia and a Zenith-fueled Le Gant, there’s a strong showing of reverse panda chronographs, complemented by a sector-dial Fortis and an early jumper from Girard-Perregaux balancing the offbeat must-haves class. For great measure, there’s an outstanding Seiko world-clock with an Olympic twist.
1957 Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Ref. 7254
Not to say Girard-Perregaux hasn’t released much in the method of interesting jump watches throughout the long term, however they’re not actually the first name that comes to endless supply of the horological subcategory. As much as I can respect the brand, it just hates the standing Rolex or Blancpain does inside the domain, which I’d contend is a testament to other watchmakers’ genius inside the domain and less so the nature of GP’s various references. History worked out as it did, and there’s no evolving that, yet this isn’t to imply that we can’t shed a little light on a reference of note that you’ve most likely never heard of.
This is the underlying cycle of the brand’s Deep Diver – its second exertion in the plunge watch space after the physically wound Sea Hawks. Created for just one year in an estimated absolute of just 500 pieces, this is surely one of the more troublesome early divers to get your hands on, and it has all the hallmarks you’d expect of an extraordinary, spearheading plunge watch, save for a pivoting bezel. These incorporate applications of radium, red dial text, and an impressive profundity rating. Best of everything, they don’t seem to completely burn up all available resources in the wake of surfacing, yet as previously referenced, it’ll be an incredible mission to discover another.
One of my #1 details on this piece, which I’d wager you’ve just seen at this point, is the lower-positioned, seconds sub-dial text that reads “100 FATHOMS.” This gladly displayed water resistance is the result of GP’s decision to fuse a fortified crystal, alongside a gasket-sealed, screw-down caseback, however is likely also the result of some cordial competition. While it can’t be affirmed, many accept this use of text to be characteristic of Girard-Perregaux’s goal to take on Blancpain, alongside the plunge watch market overall. Despite the success, or deficiency in that department, there’s no denying the compelling idea of this reference.
An eBay seller in Miami, Florida, has this one listed with an asking cost of $2,999, however you also have the choice to make an offer. Locate the full listing here .
Fortis Sector Dial
One’s affection for a vintage watch can be established in a huge number of places. For some, there’s a personal association or cherished memories created while wearing it; for others, the fondness stems from the fascinating history of the reference and one’s own excursion to completely understand said history. And afterward there are those that fall into the sometimes unforgiving pit of horological lust, a state I’m truly more acquainted with than I’d prefer to concede. Recently, I wound up in that exact same pit, however instead of leaping out of it myself, I thought I’d snag you into the pit with me. Come on down!
You’re taking a gander at a 18k gold watch created by Fortis, presumably in the last part of the 1940s to mid 1950s. While it measures a conservative 34mm across, it’s fitted with an appropriately tasteful, applied numeral-clad sector dial – the blameworthy party behind my fascination – which I’m sure affords it significantly more presence on the wrist than your normal watch of this size. Between the script used in displaying the Fortis name, the dauphine-shaped hands, and the luxurious style of the case and lugs, there’s a ton to adore here. Best of all, it’s a moderately reasonable watch, and who will complain about that?
It’s hard to say precisely what condition the dial is in, however I’d bet that it’s superior to you’d expect and worth an act of pure trust. That is my one issue here: Just one single photograph has been given by the closeout house. All things considered, I’m sure they’d be glad to give extra shots should you ask. All things considered, the piece looks to be in acceptable condition, with sharply characterized case lines suggesting it’s unpolished. Like I said, I’d wager a lot of what might have all the earmarks of being dial stamping and yellowing is truth be told on the crystal’s surface, likely making this one more one of those scenarios where you’ve gotta look past an endured, though easily supplanted, component.
Schuler Auktionen of Zurich, Switzerland, will offer this piece in its sale occurring on Monday, when it’ll be offered with an estimate of CHF 400–600. For additional details and the rest of the index, click here .
1963 Heuer Autavia Ref. 2446
Once upon a period, the very watch we’re going to discuss commanded similar cash to a host of current supercars. While it used to go for 0-60-in-less than three-seconds cash, it’s going for even more a six-second, adequately prepared extravagance sedan number now – and trust me, I perceive the bizarreness of these truths. Not to sound mind-numbingly repetitive, but rather I’m still confused by the hesitance of some to get into Heuer post-bust, as by and by, they’re still the same watches everybody got advertised about, however now they’re estimated correctly.
Let’s say you’re hoping to get into the vintage Heuer game like the Kool-Aid Man would enter a kitchen or sporting occasion. This is the watch to do it with. In addition to the fact that it is the first reference in the heredity of wrist-mounted Autavias, yet like the previously mentioned Girard-Perregaux, this piece hails from the first execution of the watchmaker’s creation run. On account of the Ref. 2446, first-execution pieces are described by the presence of a contrastingly shaped case, alongside oversized hands, sub-dial registers, and luminous numerals. The lone non-first-execution feature of the watch are its second-execution hands, which are entirely right and would’ve been fitted to the watch at the industrial facility. The entirety of this has been preserved perfectly, as the photos surely suggest.
Another detail worth making note of on this piece is its caseback. The watch probably won’t have been claimed by a famous entertainer or conveyed to a general on an army installation overseas, however being a warm and fluffy sort, it’s similarly compelling in my psyche. A dad and mother would’ve offered this to their son long ago when, which would’ve been an incredible blessing considering Heuer’s prestige during the time frame. They sealed the arrangement with the etching of a Bible verse, and regardless where you stand on all that, you’ve gotta concede that it’s a decent, sentimental touch.
The Berlin seller Shuck The Oyster is offering this Heuer. Its asking cost has been set at €48,000. Connect by hitting the connection .
1964 Seiko World Time Ref. 6217-7000
In all honesty, I’m not the biggest Seiko fellow and have frequently been killed by the ways wherein some supporter for gathering them. I own a decent few, yet have also met the GTG participant who can’t leave without enlightening you concerning how Grand Seiko’s finishing is superior to Patek, and the person who thinks the vintage Seiko market will soon eclipse that of Rolex any day now. At the risk of coming across excessively harsh, I’ll put it this way: They’re unimaginable watches, and there are no two ways about that, which is the reason there’s no compelling reason to overzealously justify one’s purchase. I’m not sure if this next piece is the following huge thing, yet I’m sure you’ll concur it’s a cool piece.
With this numerous colors and city names on its dial, the Ref. 6217-7000 must be a certain something – a world-time watch. That it is, and an interesting one at that, considering how a couple of cities seldom found on such complications have advanced onto its dial and the reasoning behind its beginning. Seiko created these out of appreciation for the 1964 Summer Olympics held in Tokyo and even decorated their casebacks with an Olympic fire to stamp the occasion. Given the quantity of unfamiliar athletes that ended up around for the festivities, the likely usefulness of a 24-hour-hand-prepared world-time watch was obvious.
Unsurprisingly, this model dates back to 1964 and was either worn with outrageous consideration or seldom worn, if at any time. All around very frequently these material dials get dirtied over years of wear, yet this one is still spotless, with all unique printing. The applications of shading stay lively as ever, and the case looks to have never been polished, sweetening the arrangement considerably further. Disregard “for the cash,” fail to remember “for a Japanese watch” – this thing is just regular cool. No compelling reason to demonstrate it. End of story.
You’ll locate this one in the stock of the Belgian vendor Perpetual Watch Lover. It’s been evaluated at €1,500, which seems reasonable given the valuing of other lesser examples as of late. Click here to discover more .
Le Gant Chronograph
To wrap things up for the week, I thought we’d twofold down on the history lessons and do somewhat more learning. While scrolling through eBay this week, I had a little available time to burn and chose to dive somewhat more profound into the histories of brand names I know close to nothing about. The reality of the situation is, a ridiculous number of companies created vintage chronographs once upon a time, some unquestionably better than others, and it’s the manufacturers behind those pieces that merit investigating. For a little insight into an especially tasteful chronograph with close to no name acknowledgment, you’ll need to keep reading.
Like the dial and listing both show, this is a Le Gant. Yet, what is a Le Gant? Le Gant was a Swiss watchmaker that principally delivered timepieces for the American retail chain Montgomery Ward & Co. Later on, they’d sell off the name to Seiko, however close to this period, they were onto something. A significant number of their watches were made using components sourced from different manufactures, including Zenith, who’s behind the Cal. 146 HP you’ll discover underneath this chronograph’s caseback. Like you’d expect, the scaffold signature reads “MONTGOMERY WARD & CO,” reassuring that this watch is just as it should be.
Its dial has the so-called “reverse panda” setup that is sought after in chronograph gathering circles, however perhaps more eminent is the minimalist typeface found inside the subdials. While I’m not sure if this was the brand’s goal, the size and weight of the subdial numerals forces you to focus in on the contrast, making a pseudo “large eye” appearance without the real huge eyes. It also measures a stately 38mm across, ensuring that it will not feel obsolete, despite being a several-decade-old watch.
An eBay seller based out of Happy Valley, Oregon, has this chronograph listed in a closeout that will come to a close on Tuesday night. At the hour of publishing, the high offered stands at $662. Get in on the activity here .