Hands-On The Cartier Santos Chronograph
In the a long time since its re-presentation, the updated Cartier Santos has become a top pick here in the HODINKEE workplaces. It’s straightforward why. The Santos is an immortal plan from an exemplary house – perhaps the most exemplary house – and it’s likewise quite possibly the most helpfully bundled watches to come along in a bit. It’s new and snappy, however certainly grounded in a comfortable plan language with which ages of watch sweethearts can identify.
If 2018 was about the reconsidered Santos de Cartier assortment, 2019 has been about the presentation of two new Santos lines, the quartz-controlled Santos Dumont and the mechanical Santos Chronograph. It’s the last of these that we have the joy of going hands on with today. I feel that of the renowned non-round Cartier plans, the Santos configuration is especially appropriate to being deciphered as a chronograph, making it one watch I have been extremely eager to investigate first seeing it at SIHH prior this year.
My initial introduction after taking a stab at the Cartier Santos Chronograph was its generous feel on the wrist. This is a watch that estimates 43.3 mm from one side to another, and like any square watch, its shape adds to the watch’s monumental character. Having said that, this Santos is just 12.5mm thick. It doesn’t feel cumbersome; actually, it wears low and stable on the wrist, yet you unquestionably know it’s there. The 43.3mm case size is the thing that Cartier alludes to as the XL inside the Santos reach, and I can see the more modest wristed among us battling a piece to pull it off. Three various executions of the Santos Chronograph as of now exist, all in the XL size and covering a wide spread of costs. I can undoubtedly envision these different contributions interesting to a wide scope of watch purchasers. The assortment opens with a treated steel variant with a bezel made of ADLC ($8,950) that is out and out lively, and keeps on including a dressier yellow-gold-bezeled steel rendition ($13,500), and afterward finishes out with a strong rose-gold execution ($24,700) that is unadulterated luxury.
One of my number one parts of the Santos Chronograph is the way that the chronograph highlights are coordinated into the watch all in all without disturbing the lines of an acclaimed watch plan. Clearly, this applies to the markings on the dial just as to the catches working on it, yet we should investigate a the case first. Like different models in the changed Santos de Cartier assortment, the Santos Chronograph includes a screwed-down, squared bezel. However, though past models highlighted a straightforward square bezel screwed directly on top of the watch to outline the dial, the new Santos Chronograph has a rendition with “hoods” at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions, better coordinating with the watch’s arm band when there is one. The Santos Chronograph likewise includes a capricious plan for the chronograph pushers that carefully incorporates with the watch’s plan, while staying simple to utilize. One beginnings and stops the chronograph with a carefully positioned pusher on the caseband at the 9 o’clock position. The chronograph reset work is incorporated into the crown at 3 o’clock. Furthermore, the watch comes with an adequate 100 meters of water obstruction – all that anyone could need for the exercises I envision most proprietors of this watch expect to do with it, and an entirely decent number for any chronograph, really.
The dials of every rendition highlight a silvered glossy silk finish and huge Roman numerals around the edge. A 30-minute counter takes up the 3 o’clock position, and a 12-hour counter can be found at nine. The running seconds sub-dial involves a more modest situation at 6 o’clock. The date is there as well. The huge chronograph sub-dials and the circumspect utilization of SuperLuminova on all fours markers make for a clear design.
All of the models in the Santos Chronograph assortment include Cartier’s “QuickSwitch” framework, which takes into consideration basic changing of lashes and arm bands without a tool. And the actual wristbands highlight the SmartLink change framework. Perhaps the greatest complaint about wristbands on watches is that, with few special cases, they don’t accommodate occasional varieties in wrist size. With the “SmartLink” arm band found on the most recent setup of Santos watches, popping a connection in or out is simple. In reality, and this goes for the entire Santos assortment, perhaps the best thing about these watches are the wristbands. In addition to the fact that they look incredible and feel extraordinary, their simple compatibility perceives the way that not every person needing to change out lashes possesses a spring-bar device, or needs to hazard utilizing one on a fresh out of the plastic new Cartier.
The incorporation of these two frameworks is especially important in a day and age when individuals increasingly more purchase watches on the web. Anybody equipped for unpacking their Santos is similarly fit for estimating and changing the arm band – no excursion to a diamond setter or watchmaker required. The steel and ADLC adaptation comes with one lash in elastic and a second tie in dark Gomma croc calfskin with steel collapsing clasp. The two-tone gold-and-steel Santos has a steel wristband highlighting the “SmartLink” change framework and a second lash in elastic with steel collapsing clasp. Also, the all-rose-gold rendition comes with a lash in dull dim semi-matte croc calfskin and second in elastic with 18k pink-gold collapsing buckle.
The development fueling the Santos Chronograph is the in-house type 1904 CH MC, an astounding self-winding section wheel chronograph that has been essential for the company’s development family since 2012. It was crafted by Carol Forestier, a complications expert whose name actually needs no prologue to perusers of this site. It’s force save of 48 hours puts the 1904 CH MC toward the lower end of what one may expect of a (decently) as of late planned and delivered in-house chronograph development, yet that is certainly not a major worry to me considering the way that it twists naturally and has ground-breaking every day wear watch claim, especially in the steel/ADLC and two-tone executions.
The Santos Chronograph is one of those watches that you need to put on your wrist to completely comprehend, I think. There will presumably be the individuals who see the XL case size assignment and read the 43.3mm square case particular and capitulate to the desire to forget about this watch before they give it a possibility, however that would be a slip-up. As I would like to think, this is the best-executed variant of a famous, non-round Cartier case shape in chronograph form.
For more data, visit Cartier.