Hands-On The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1R.6-1
Ferdinand Berthoud (an auxiliary brand of the Chopard Group) dispatched its first watch in 2015 ; that watch is the FB 1, which has an octagonal case, a column and plate development with a fusee-and-chain consistent power system and tourbillon, and a force save component dependent on a cone-and-sensor instrument. The watch has a shockingly thin, exquisite wrist presence thinking about the complexity of the development, and it was trailed by minor departure from the first plan including primary and tasteful advancements; there are right now eight minor departure from the FB 1 in its list, and this year the firm presented its first moonphase Ferdinand Berthoud watch (which comprises of two watches in the assortment FB 1L ). A year ago, Ferdinand Berthoud appeared, at Baselworld, the Chronomètre FB 1R.6-1, which has an instance of solidified, carburised steel, and an uncommon minor departure from a controller format which makes a most intriguing utilization of negative space with regards to the general dial composition. Likewise with its stablemates, it is, while an exceptionally complicated watch, additionally very thin and substantially more comfortable and natural a wrist presence, than is for the most part the case for such superwatches.
The 44mm x 13.95mm case is made of carburised steel; carburising is a type of case-solidifying, which creates a very scratch and wear safe surface, while keeping the durability and effect strength of the center material. The term comes from the way that carburising is a procedure that includes the presentation of extra carbon from carbon-bearing substances like charcoal or, in current industry, carbon dioxide. Gas carburizing is normally completed in an extraordinary stove, which can arrive at temperatures of 900º C or more; the instance of the FB 1R.6-1 has a surface hardness of 1200 Vickers (for comparison, 316L hardened steel has a hardness of around 140 Vickers; precious stone has a hardness of 10,000 Vickers).
It’s a fascinating decision both in fact and stylishly. For the most part talking, in such a watchmaking you will in general see either customary extravagance case materials, similar to gold or platinum, or the utilization of clearly cutting edge materials and completions – manufactured carbon, and cases with DLC coatings (precious stone like carbon) happen to me. Carburised prepares are generally utilized, on the other hand, in a colossal assortment of modern applications; everything from transportation, to assembling hardware, to components in force plants, without any end in sight. The procedure is additionally, in a general sense, not a cutting edge measure; the impact of warming prepares over a drawn out period in a high carbon climate have been known for quite a long time (the authentic Ferdinand Berthoud himself may well have known about the method).
The contrast between the matte, mechanical looking surface of the case, and the serious level of finish pampered on different components, delivers a substantially more texturally rich and fascinating impact than profoundly cleaned valuable metals or clearly innovative materials, and it is likewise a great foil to the dial composition and materials. The actual dial is dark rhodium-plated nickel silver, however it doesn’t have a level dark look – because of the hand-applied vertical silk brushing, it gets surrounding light and creates a lovely peaceful sparkle. The brushing likewise gives an unmistakable yet downplayed textural difference to the case, just as to the next dial components, including the blued steel minute hand and hour pointer, and the cleaned steel of the force save mechanism.
The imbalance of the dial configuration gives the middle seconds hand a changing character as it clears around the dial; it has an awesome detachment as it moves through the empty space somewhere in the range of two and seven o’clock, and the length of the seconds hand tail keeps up the equilibrium of the general composition in any event, when the hand is navigating the segment of the dial conveying the different signs. I think absolutely from a feel outlook, this may be quite possibly the best Ferdinand Berthoud watches; the plan has that combination of dynamism and peacefulness which describes large numbers of the best horological plans (Lange and Jaquet Droz both come into view as companies that can now and again do this very well also).
The fountainhead barrel, with the chain wound onto it.
The fusee cone.
The development, type FB-T.FC.R (it appears to be a sensible conjecture that it’s T for Tourbillon; FC for Force Constant, regarding the fusee-and-chain; and R obviously is for Regulateur, concerning the dial design) is done in nickel silver, with titanium columns for better strength and unbending nature (just as a touch of investment funds in weight, which given the minuteness of the components is likely a minor bit of leeway, best case scenario, yet every piece makes a difference). It is uncommonly thin for a development with a fusee-and-chain; those components specifically, not just occupy a ton of space in the development yet in addition by and large, and unavoidably, add extensive height.
Ferdinand Berthoud has tended to this by acquiring a method from exemplary super slight watchmaking. This is the utilization of a “hanging” fountainhead barrel, which instead of being sandwiched between the mainplate and an extension, is joined uniquely to the plate. In the FB-T.FC.R, both the origin barrel and the fusee cone utilize this development and the outcome is a development which comes in at just 35.50mm in width, and 9.86mm thick (for reference, the Rolex type 3186 is 28.50mm x 6.40mm).
In comparison to the limited lyricism of the dial, the development side of the watch is unreasonable horological gorgeous sight. The obvious subtleties remember the customizable loads for the enormous, free-sprung balance; the natural shape of the appendages of the tourbillon carriage, the Maltese cross stopworks on the origin barrel, and the differential cog wheels on the fusee cone. The last are important for the looking after works – when you wind a watch with a fusee, you are winding the chain onto the fusee cone, which draws the chain off the fountainhead barrel and places strain in the origin. The issue with this, is that the watch is controlled when things are going a contrary way – when the heart barrel, under the strain of the spring, is drawing the chain off the fusee cone, which goes about as the principal wheel in the going train. Winding the watch, consequently, will make the watch stop. The answer for this is supposed “looking after force” which is a system incorporated into the fusee cone, which gives energy to the going train by keeping strain on the fusee cone’s “incredible wheel” (the main watch in the going train, at the base of the cone). The instrument was designed by John Harrison for his H4 marine chronometer.
The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R 6.1 is, similar to all the company’s watches, extremely restricted as far as creation numbers; this model is a restricted release of 20 pieces. It is a watch that shows off not just exceptionally alluring, exemplary watchmaking regarding development, yet additionally addresses an intriguing point with regards to the advancement of watch plan at Ferdinand Berthoud.
Chopard Group isn’t a company that gives a lot of indication of needing to be thought intrusive, or cutting edge, or unique for creativity. The FB 1R.6-1 isn’t an oddity watch, and for all its refinement, it doesn’t wear like one either; exertion has been consumed on making it not simply a unique and fruitful plan (which is as of now something uncommon in watchmaking, all things considered in some other space of plan) it is likewise a watch on which exertion has been used, to guarantee that isn’t just wearable (a low bar, let’s be honest) yet really comfortable and pleasurable to wear. You don’t get that in quarter million dollar looks as frequently as you should.
The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1: case, carburised steel, 44mm x 13.95mm; water opposition 30 meters; crown, carburised steel with fired decorate. Sapphire gems front and back, with two sapphire openings for the situation flank for review the barrel and fusee cone. Dial, controller style; hours on a pivoting sapphire plate at 2:00; power hold at 10:00, with minutes subdial at 12:00. Dial plate, dark rhodium plated nickel silver. Development, type FB-T.FC.R, 35.50mm x 9.89mm; running in 49 gems; 53 hour power hold. 3 Hz one moment tourbillon with straightforwardly determined focus seconds (driven by the tourbillon confine). Suspended fusee-and-chain and heart barrel. Development chronometer confirmed by the COSC. Restricted version of 20 pieces around the world; cost, $241,500. Peruse more about it at FerdinandBerthoud.ch.