Hands-On The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164R
Originally reported at Baselworld in 2016, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164R is definitely not another watch. That being said, I trust you’ll give me a little leeway as, as far as I might be concerned, it’s kinda the watch. Among the positions of present day watches, the 5164, and recently, the 5164R (the R tells you it’s made of rose gold) has since quite a while ago pulled at my heartstrings, regardless of whether it’s impossible that I will at any point have the tote strings to make such a watch my own. In this way, I ask just that you dream a little rose-gold dream with me, as I go active with a genuine vessel, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164R.
Many of you who realize my composing are now very much aware that I venerate travel and travel watches. I’ve crossed the nation to survey an extraordinary GMT , devoted my section of our new book to travel watches and, to invest some energy with this Aquanaut, I needed to initially eliminate a very much worn Rolex Explorer II from my wrist.
One of the incredible things about movement watches is that the actual complication is available to a ton of inventive translation. The need to show extra time regions can be overseen from numerous points of view, from the set up tone of GMTs and world clocks to the more free structure translation of “double time” or “travel time” watches (in which genuine travel usefulness is a long way from an assurance). With the production of the first steel 5164A in 2011, Patek incorporated their Caliber 324 S C FUS, a programmed 4 Hz development with a 45-hour power save that offers a shrewd double time work constrained by two pushers set into the left half of the case. Utilizing a couple of hour hands, one of which is skeletonized and can be covered up underneath the fundamental hour hand, the Aquanaut 5164R can undoubtedly progress among home and away modes.
This is a long way from the first run through such usefulness has been found in a Patek, and we can really look as far back as the mid 60s and the madly cool ref. 2597 (shown right), which Ben depicts here as “a ref. 570 Calatrava with an extraordinary travel-time development.” The usefulness was initially made by one Louis Cottier, otherwise known as the dad of the world clock complication. While the first arrangement one 2597s had just a solitary hour hand for change, the later arrangement two models had two hands, much the same as the 5164.
With this advanced Aquanaut Travel Time, every hour hand has its own AM/PM marker via a couple of little openings in the dial which progress from white to dim blue as both of the nearby or home time shows moves from day into night. Beginning with the hour hands covered, when you land in another timezone you can utilize the pushers to cutting edge the nearby hand advances or in reverse, mirroring the new time. Should you pass 12 PM, the date (as shown in the subdial at six) will follow the nearby hand. You would now be able to peruse the nearby time and date on the standard handset, while home time is shown by a white skeletonized hour hand. It’s misleadingly simple, almost excessively rich to its benefit, and I’ll grant additional focuses for the making of a movement time work that doesn’t need eliminating the watch from one’s wrist (Cottier gets me, as ever).
In a model where capacity is all around coordinated by structure, the 5164R is a powerful blend of lively Aquanaut plan language, through and through intelligibility, and a wrist presence that I would set out to call awesome. To apply an abused term, it’s essentially incredible in the metal. On wrist, it feels somewhat more modest than I expected of its 40.8mm case. At 10.2mm thick, it embraces my 7-inch wrist and feels even on its supplied dim earthy colored polymer (elastic) tie and coordinating rose-gold, twofold deployant fasten. While the rose gold is surely a hefty method of making that dazzling case and bezel, the extents (counting a drag to haul of 48mm) disregard the weight, leaving the 5164R to feel uncommon however not under any condition lumbering on wrist.
The dial is a warm earthy colored tone with a weak angle and a similarly unpretentious lined example that impersonates the lines of scope and longitude on a globe (and is seen again in the date sub-dial). While I believe it’s protected to say that the steel 5164A is likely the (considerably) more unpretentious of the pair, the rose gold is comparably wearable yet feels inconceivably more special. It’s a gold Patek that is additionally an energetic travel watch with 120 meters of water opposition and a screw-down crown. My heart.
I understand what some of you are thinking, and it’s either Why not a Nautilus? or Why even expound on a watch nobody can purchase? I think the two inquiries are reasonable and both can be replied by a thought of the Aquanaut’s significant come up. Which began as an easygoing watch that was intended to be the “helpless man’s Nautilus” has become a symbol in its own right, an elastic clad cut of high horology that keeps up the shibboleth of the profound fan, while offering altogether adaptability, style, and, on account of the 5164, really valuable functionality.
Spurred on by r ising sell off exhibitions and a periodic new colorway from Patek, the flourish and shortlist way of life commonly connected to the Nautilus is totally shared by the Aquanaut – and the 5164 is without a doubt class unobtainium.
While the Aquanaut may have been somewhat relatively revolutionary when the line previously dispatched back in 1997, today it offers a new interpretation of an exemplary style, ideal for the west-coast overwhelmed, easygoing at this point considered feel of enthusiastic lovers like Keegan Allen or John Mayer (both recognition the watch in their scenes of Talking Watches).
I know a considerable lot of you perusing this have just encountered the joy of claiming your vessel, be it a Patek or something else, and for that, I salute you. There is something so wild to me about a gold Patek Philippe – normally the invasion of all around obeyed investors – delivered into the brand’s entrance level games stage, with an elastic tie, and an amazing GMT movement.
Competition is something odd with any almost difficult to-purchase watch, however I’ll check it out. Against almost any comparable, the $53,070 5164R is costly. Consider the $36,600 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time, or the (steel just) Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time at $20,700. For hell’s sake, the Everose Rolex GMT-Master II is $36,750. A Lange 1 Time Zone in pink gold is around $52,000. You can even remain inside the Patek Philippe family with the pilot-styled 5524R at $49,560. These are for the most part exceptionally cool watches. Yet, there’s cool and there’s cool. The 5164 is the last mentioned, as demonstrated by its higher-than-normal expense and its inconceivable demand.
For my wrist, in one or the other metal, the 5164 is the coolest present day Patek Philippe and, according to the fact that it was so difficult to take this Aquanaut off my wrist, a moment one-watch assortment. While without a doubt costly and surely incredibly difficult to find, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164R is a timezone bouncing endgame for those with an all around valuable affinity for an extraordinary travel watch.
For more, visit Patek Philippe on the web .