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In-Depth TAG Heuer's Guy Bove And The New Autavia Isograph

In-Depth TAG Heuer’s Guy Bove And The New Autavia Isograph

Sometimes things don’t work out as arranged. From the get-go in 2017, I addressed Guy Bove, at that point item chief and architect at Chopard. He’d as of late completed the energizing plans of sister brand Ferdinand Berthoud, which had gathered up the principle prize at the Grand Prix d‘Horlogerie de Genève a couple of months prior. In any case, despite the fact that he is a true watch darling, Bove was looking at looking for another heading throughout everyday life. Maybe escaping watches. Maybe voyaging more. Maybe zeroing in additional on his photograph based craftsmanship. A couple of months after the fact, the entirety of that went out the window. 

A natural number had showed up on Guy’s telephone – that of Georges Kern, with whom Guy had recently worked at IWC. Kern had recently been named the new supervisor of Breitling and needed Guy ready. After a year ago’s relaunch of Breitling, which combined contemporary plans with motivation from its own vintage list, we as a whole suspected the team would continue to go for some time. I’m certain I was not by any means the only one whose jaw dropped when I caught Guy at this previous year’s GPHG and he disclosed to me that as of November 1, 2018, he had become the item chief at TAG Heuer. 

A few months after the fact, Guy, clad in purple V-neck cashmere on a dim shirt, welcomed me in the meeting room of the loosened up gleaming box that is the TAG Heuer HQ. His long and furious days start when he opens up a PC or sketchbook at seven AM on the train from Geneva and completions 12-13 hours later.

“My plan here in La Chaux-de-Fonds is completely shut out – I am meeting individuals, moving things along,” says Guy, adding that, “At this moment the large spotlight is on the Autavia assortment, which dispatches at Baselworld on March 20, 2019.”

The Autavia, which in a real sense comes from the universe of autos and avionics ( as Cole noted here ), started with a 1933 dashboard twofold chronograph and clock that you would introduce in your own vehicle or plane. What’s more, this, thusly, was slipped from a 1911 dashboard chronograph called Time of Trip. Quick forward to 1962, and the Autavia had advanced into a wrist-worn chronograph – the essential plan motivation of the new collection.

“At TAG Heuer we make looks for individuals of activity,” Guy clarifies. “We have clear columns, and two of them are outside: Autavia and Aquaracer. Aquaracer is even more a specialized device watch, where I would envision ice tomahawks, breathing contraptions, thus on. Autavia is maybe more enlivened by its past and the Aviation part of its name. It is likewise a lot of a genuine TAG Heuer watch; it has the bidirectional fired bezel, titanium case back, chronometer affirmation, and water protection from 100 meters.”

We plunked down with the new assortment of watches in front of Baselworld so that Guy could give me some knowledge into how this new family happened, why he made a portion of the seriously fascinating plan choices, and where things may go later on. Here is a select part of our discussion. We get directly into it:

Anders Modig

But, while it’s as yet a device watch, is the new Autavia more about going on an extravagance safari than going on an Antarctic expedition?

Fellow Bove

Exactly. Yet, it can in any case confront a ton of stuff; it is modern innovation. The plan is a smidgen more authentic and reasonable for a more easygoing style. 

AM

I see you are getting on board with the fleeting trend of smoked dials too.

GB

Yes, dials blurring to dark is something we had done effectively during the 1960s and 1970s at TAG Heuer. This gives it a consoling retro inclination, yet in the event that you take a gander at the dial, you see a few plan subtleties that we would not have had the option to make before. For example, the records embedded into the internal bezel and the numerals are in reality thick squares of Super-LumiNova stuck to the dial. 

AM

How do you accomplish the exceptionally appealing grain on the dial?

GB

It is digitally embellished, and the grain comes from the work of art process. 

AM

What does the Isograph on the dial stand for? 

GB

It is Greek for “equivalent planning,” and it flags that we’ve come up with the world’s first hairspring made of a carbon composite. There are two machines on the planet that can make it, and the two of them are at the furthest edge of this structure. We began utilizing it in the Carrera Caliber Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph recently, and now Autavia will likewise have this hairspring. It is invulnerable to stuns, vibrations, temperature change, and magnetism. This can permit altogether different looks in the event that we need. We can plan a hairspring with a couple of imperatives, for example, the space accessible and the recurrence. (The programmed development Autavia is beating at 4 Hz or 28,800 vph.)

AM

So it gives the fashioner more freedom? 

GB

Yes, it doesn’t need to resemble a typical hairspring. This innovation additionally permits us to work with an equilibrium wheel.

AM

What other plan highlights stand apart for you in the Autavia collection?

GB

The angled drags and the XL crown – the section in the center comes from the dashboard clock, and the crown’s shield logo is encircled by polish on the steel pieces. This is new for us. On the two bronze models the shield has a matte framing. 

AM

Yes, what else would you be able to say about the bronze models?

GB

I truly like green watches! Also, with regards to the actual bronze, there are two distinct kinds of compounds, and this is the one that colors – it will go to verdigris – it isn’t the aluminum bronze composite that some different brands prefer. 

AM

Why did you select this?

GB

It is customary bronze. In the event that you are truly searching for bronze watch, my assessment is that you anticipate that it should turn green. You just should be somewhat tolerant. Have you perused what they say on the gatherings about bronze? “Heaps of astounding home science out there.”

AM

As a creator, for what reason do you believe that bronze has acquired such fame in the course of the last not many years?

GB

Because it is a fair, legitimate, strong, common material with patina, which gives a more authentic feel to the item. It stands apart from steel with the warm shade of gold, however not the garish sparkle of gold. In the end it is a touch more costly than steel, yet it’s anything but an immense cost gap.

AM

What about the ties on the new Autavias? 

GB

If you need a conventional look, you get it with the cowhide lash. Furthermore, we have a tie framework which makes it excessively simple to change. On the off chance that you pick the metal arm band, you likewise get a NATO lash in the package. 

AM

In general, why is type on a watch so significant for you as a watch designer?

GB

Because you can feel it. On the Autavia, basically all the kind utilized is from the 1960s unique – and some 1970s models, for example the Bundeswehr models. 

AM

Let’s move it up to an essential level. You have been planning and driving item offices at three altogether different companies in a short measure of time. How would they compare? 

GB

Since TAG Heuer is a lot greater in volume, the lead times here are longer – about a year from configuration to showcase. This year is somewhat of a between time year; I have had next to no say on the items since they were practically evolved when I got here. 

AM

Is there a distinction between working for a family company (Chopard), an investor (Breitling), and an extravagance gathering (TAG Heuer)? 

GB

The question comes down to individuals more than to what in particular sort of company it is. The character of the proprietor has the effect. The general objective with each of them three is to improve, to remain what their identity is, and to push ahead into the future, make added esteem, and sustain the brand.  

AM

My bias would say that huge volumes would mean more plan compromises. Is that valid in your experience? 

GB

If you compare the 50 pieces each time of Ferdinand Berthoud, where we likewise created new haute horlogerie completing procedures, with the a huge number of TAG Heuers, there is a distinction. With an exceptionally high volume you need to improve plan and creation. Yet, clearly I will not let anything through that is intensely compromising the goal. Furthermore, in the end it is unquestionably conceivable to make cool watches at an enormous scope! I would say that TAG Heuer is about superior just as haute horlogerie. Here we are discussing science and science at the help of timing and mechanics. 

AM

Why the solid Autavia center in 2019? 

GB

We have shocking watches, lively watches, rich ones, yet up to this point we didn’t have the perpetual aspect of an undertaking watch.  

AM

When you say “experience,” I take a gander at the Autavia and discover it to be a truly cool Jeep of a watch. Do you understand what I mean? 

GB

Yes, precisely. We didn’t have the Jeep. We had the race vehicle, we had the GT, the run, however we didn’t have the Jeep. We even had a Hummer, however we didn’t have the Jeep. Presently we have the Defender. 

AM

Vintage is as yet immense – one general pattern to administer them all. Why are watch creators thinking back so much?

GB

My theory and vision are not to make retro items, but rather to make items that are associated with our past. The fixings ought to be comparable, however the plans extraordinary. On the off chance that you need to assemble a brand, I think you should have the option to perceive a portion of the fixings from the past. 

AM

What are you bringing to TAG Heuer?

GB

You know, my first great watch was a TAG Heuer, back in 1989. The main watch I really dealt with was really a TAG Heuer. With regards to watches, I like combining the past with the future and the present, which is something that can be underlined in our assortments. In the end I clearly bring my assessment and the eyes of a planner – I have been taking a gander at these sorts of subtleties for 20 … [he stops to think] … no, for just about 25 years. 

AM

Now with your bustling timetable and enormous difficulties, what’s going on with your own specialty outside the watch world? 

GB

I essentially lack the capacity to deal with it. At the point when I come home following a long rushed day, I simply need to invest a touch of energy with my family. So indeed, it is eat, rest, rehash right now. However, when life is this acceptable, I wouldn’t fret that at all.

For more on the new Autavia Isograph, visit TAG Heuer online .

Photographs by Hans-Jörg F. Walter

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