15 49.0138 8.38624 1 0 4000 1 https://www.audemarsreviews.com 300 true 0
In-Depth The Early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

In-Depth The Early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Picture yourself in a major city and feeling a similarly huge requirement for another watch. You’ve had some achievement, and you stroll into an upscale retailer with the expectations of discovering something uncommon and unmistakable – a watch that passes on both style and an appreciation for very good quality watchmaking. A gold Patek? Not energizing enough. An Omega Constellation? Excessively ornate, perhaps. 

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar reference 25654ST in steel. (Picture: civility of A Collected Man )

Walking around the display area and peering into the sparkling cases, you pass a significant part of the privileged few until you see something else. While the state of a Royal Oak is probably really particular, this one is exceptional. The waffle tapisserie dial is gone, and in its place, you locate a smooth silver-tone dial with four little sub-dials. It’s a perpetual calendar! 

Pouring over the subtleties as a sales rep opens the cabinet, you notice the blued hands on the subdials and note that, in evident Royal Oak style, this QP is made of steel and comes on a coordinating arm band. “It’s the most recent from Audemars Piguet,” says the salesman as their gloved hands pass you the watch, adding, “and it’s very uncommon. Particularly in steel.”

A steel Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25654ST on wrist. (Picture: graciousness of A Collected Man )

You go after your telephone, expecting to make a wrist effort for the ‘gram, however your back pocket is vacant. Checking your jacket pocket you find just a bunch of Camel Lights and a half-spent book of matches from the Westgate Las Vegas. The room begins to turn. Hysterically, you check your front pocket, finding just a pen and a checkbook. Where is your telephone? For what reason do you have checks?

Did I neglect to specify that it’s 1985? Ronald Reagan is in briefly term, and Back to the Future is rapidly becoming the hit film of the year. 

As for the watch on your wrist, the sales rep is right. It is the most recent from AP, and it is uncommon. Extraordinarily along these lines, really. It’s a reference 25554 Royal Oak Quantieme Perpetual, and in addition to the fact that it is the most punctual combination of the Royal Oak with Audemars Piguet’s genealogy of making wonderful and unfathomably uncommon perpetual schedule wristwatches, but on the other hand it’s one of the solitary arrangement delivered steel perpetual schedules available at the time.

To see exactly how abnormal, and great, and uncommon these early Royal Oak QPs truly are, we need to return considerably further. So toss on your best orange puffer vest, bounce in your DMC-12, and set the clock to 1948. While profoundly established in the unusual and testing season of the 1980s, the narrative of Audemars Piguet’s most punctual Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars begins many years sooner as the brand introduced the post-war period with a characterized center around schedule complications. 

The Early QPs

While I will endeavor not to overemphasize this particular component inside the more prominent history within reach, the soonest snapshots of Audemars Piguet’s perpetual schedules are very uncommon and are described by two characterizing factors: extremely restricted creation and the presence of a jump year sign on the dial (or the deficiency in that department, all the more explicitly). For clearness, a significant part of the accompanying data has been sourced from AP’s own book Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches and through kind help from Audemars Piguet’s in-house legacy group and a small bunch of learned collectors. Please see the affirmations toward the end, to all, I am interminably grateful. 

In 1948, Audemars Piguet made its first-historically speaking perpetual schedule wristwatch, the consecrated reference 5516. That underlying creation was not just a monstrous win for the brand’s always growing watchmaking insight, however a piece of the creation run additionally addressed the primary ever perpetual schedule wristwatch with a jump year sign on the dial. As you can envision, these watches were completely hand put forth and took a fantastic measure of attempt and time to create. Accordingly, in spite of a really microscopic creation of 12 units altogether, the 5516 advanced more than four forms, and all were made over a range of nine years. 

A uncommon Audemars Piguet reference 5516 perpetual schedule wristwatch from the last part of the ’50s including an early jump year show. (Picture: graciousness Audemars Piguet)

The initial three 5516s were created without a jump year sign and really looked a lot not the same as one another. The soonest on the record (underneath, right) educates many plan components found on the early Royal Oak QPs; with a four-register format, moon-stage at six, the month sign at twelve, and a sub-dial at three for the date. Pay specific notification to the absence of a jump year sign, as this is the beginning of the design we will see almost 40 years after the fact for the Royal Oak. 

Two instances of Audemars Piguet’s most punctual perpetual schedules, the two advancements of the 5516. (Images: kindness of Audemars Piguet)

The next adaptation of the 5516 (above, left) offers a completely extraordinary format, with the moon-stage at twelve and the date adjusted to the outskirts with a halfway mounted date hand. This second take of the brand’s perpetual schedule wristwatch additionally came up short on a jump year show and utilized a more fancy case and drag plan. Two such models are known to have been created, with the originally conveyed to Gubelin in 1950 and the second offered to Patek Philippe in New York at some point during 1962.

Production and deals dates for such uncommon and tedious watches can shift significantly, with some not leaving for retail until years after they started creation. Looking to 1955, Audemars Piguet developed the 5516 somewhat to offer the first-historically speaking jump year show on a wristwatch. As per AP’s thorough records, nine such models were made in two particular arrangement, with all models staying inside the domain of the 5516 reference. 

The first of the jump year-prepared 5516s, of which only three yellow-gold models are known, utilized a combined showcase in the sub-dial at six o’clock to show both the four years of the jump year cycle alongside an unmistakable blued hand that demonstrated the dynamic year in the four-year movement (appeared above, over dark background). 

We additionally see the moon-stage at twelve, and the proceeded with utilization of a fringe date show. Deals of these three models would start in 1959. While unquestionably a complicated method of showing the jump year, this was the first occasion when it had been finished by any brand in arrangement creation, and you don’t need to look all that carefully to see these later 5516s as something of a tasteful and philosophical establishment whereupon AP has constructed a lot of its advanced success. 

The last emphasis of Audemars Piguet’s soonest perpetual schedule, the 5516. (Picture: civility of Audemars Piguet)

For the remainder of the four 5516 cycles, we are aware of six recorded back to back sequential models with creation beginning in 1957 and deals occurring from 1963-1969. For these models (appeared over), the moon-stage is once again at six, and the jump year sign is in something of a transitionary stage. At any rate a solitary model offered a more refined combination month/jump year sub-dial, yet after a short time, the combined sub-dial for the four year and jump year shows were isolated into a year sub-dial at three, and a jump year dial at twelve. This would be a significant advancement and surely one that saw the 5516 above and beyond away from its pocketwatch roots, on the way to becoming a more proficient and neat wristwatch design. 

A More Complicated Royal Oak

By now I am certain that large numbers of you know the inception story of the Royal Oak. Planned by Gérald Genta as Audemars Piguet’s first extravagance sports watch, it was likewise at first just offered in steel. Acquainted with the world at Baselworld in 1972, the Royal Oak reference 5402ST was a colossal bet for the little Swiss firm – an extravagance steel sports watch with a complicated wristband, an extremely slender case, and the overall refinement of an extravagance dress watch. 

A reference 5402ST, the Genta-planned beginning of the Royal Oak. 

Surprisingly, particularly given the advanced setting and extraordinary prevalence of the Royal Oak today, it was no for the time being hit. Upon discharge, the 5402ST was viewed as enormous (it estimates 39mm wide) and extravagant for a steel sports watch. For those asking, “Exactly how costly is ‘over the top expensive’?” Well, in a meeting from 2009, Genta himself commented , “The extremely valuable games watch is another idea that we concocted along with Audemars Piguet. At the point when the Royal Oak was delivered, it was sold for 3,750 Swiss Francs, retail cost. At that point, the most costly steel watch cost 850 Swiss Francs! That was something absolutely inconceivable.” 

Thankfully, Audemars Piguet realized it was on to something great and kept on supporting its weirdo Royal Oak, which would gradually acquire prevalence over the course of the following not many years. As Genta featured in the above statement, the Royal Oak would before long characterize a whole subset of very good quality steel sports watches. Different brands, including Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, observed and built up their own competition, with Patek Philippe in any event, venturing to such an extreme as to enlist Genta to plan their Nautilus.

This was an exceptional season in Swiss watchmaking and was without a doubt one that assisted with protecting companies like Audemars Piguet from the full effect of the approaching quartz emergency. In an industry that doesn’t for the most part see quick change working out in support of themselves, the Royal Oak began as a gradual process, yet the impacts of this new plan and idea are as yet being felt today. Current models, both from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, stay the absolute generally alluring, hard-to-purchase, and promptly replicated watches discounted today. 

With the developing achievement of the Royal Oak plan, Audemars Piguet would at last expound on its once steel-just model with valuable metals, extra dial renditions, and, later on, extra complications – including perpetual calendars. 

Before we get to the 1980s and the particular superstar, there is one greater improvement to add into our set of experiences, which is the 1978 presentation of the 2120/2800 perpetual schedule development. Since you have a speedy update on the historical backdrop of the Royal Oak, it’s essential to comprehend that the first model was fueled by the type 2120. 

Dial side of the 2120/2800 programmed perpetual schedule development from Audemars Piguet. (Picture: politeness of Audemars Piguet)

Based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 (which were given as ebauches in pack structure and required adjustment and broad hand-completing), the exceptionally dainty 2120 not just assisted the 5402 Royal Oak with keeping up its smooth 7mm case profile, however it was additionally utilized in opponent models from both Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. For the motivations behind this story, and with regards to the configuration so far, the 2120 is the ideal beginning for where we are headed.

By 1978, not very many brands were making arrangement delivered perpetual schedule wristwatches. At the point when you take a gander at the whole creation of QPs from Audemars Piguet from 1948 to 1977, you’re just discussing 12 watches (I think you know the ones) and the recently dispatched 5548 (which the brand would proceed to deliver for exactly 14 years). With Audemars Piguet peering toward a re-visitation of perpetual schedule wonder, it took the effective JLC-based 2120 and planned a fitting perpetual schedule module (which was then fabricated by Dubois Dépraz). 

Caseback side of the 2120/2800 programmed perpetual schedule development from Audemars Piguet. (Picture: politeness of Audemars Piguet)

While numerous companies would have rotated towards the expanding (and compromising) notoriety of quartz innovation, at that point Managing Director of Audemars Piguet George Golay had an alternate thought. Similarly as when he assisted with presenting the Royal Oak in 1972, Golay was hoping to make a major wager. Enter the 2120/2800, the world’s most slender programmed perpetual schedule movement. 

While just 3.95mm thick, the smooth 38-gem 2120/2800 would introduce a period of fast extension and creation for the verifiably little firm. Something more – the first 2120/2800 shared an odd association with the brand’s soonest perpetual schedules: the shortfall of a jump year show. It is here that we locate our actual extension, the birth and early long periods of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and, all the more explicitly, those most fundamental references that came up short on a jump year indication. 

What Goes Around Comes Back Around (Aka The 5554)

As I referenced above, for early Audemars Piguet perpetual schedule watches (be they the most punctual 5516s or the early Royal Oak QPs), the flavor here is a significant extraordinariness and the trademark absence of a jump year indication. 

Audemars Piguet’s Perpetual Calendar reference 5548. Dated to 1981, not long before the brand would place a similar development in a Royal Oak. (Picture by means of Sotheby’s)

The 2120/2800 originally saw obligation in the 5548 (appeared above), which hit the market in 1978 and immediately turned into an enormously fruitful model for the Audemars Piguet. In light of the accomplishment of the 5548-25548, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was formally reported in 1984 as the reference 5554 (and later, 25554) and – you got it – the reference was very restricted underway and come up short on a jump year show. For lucidity pushing ahead, it’s critical to take note of that somewhere in the range of 1984 and 1985, Audemars Piguet moved to a five-digit reference number configuration, with every one of the four-digit models getting a “2” prefix. Accordingly the 25548 and the 25554. 

An mid 5554-25554 in steel with a “dim opaline” dial. (Picture: politeness of Audemars Piguet)

Like the 5402, the 5554-25554 is 39mm wide, 7.5mm thick, and, beside the dial, resembles some other Royal Oak. In talking for certain contacts at Audemars Piguet, I learned of the significant specialized test of maintaining the water opposition of a particularly slender case, while likewise coordinating the extra case-side correctors needed for the considerably more complicated perpetual schedule development. As we’ll find in the coming reference features, this was a test that necessary constant turn of events and prompted little contrasts starting with one reference then onto the next, in any event, for some that were delivered in parallel. 

An mid 25654ST (C-arrangement, Mark 1 dial) showing the design common to all pre-jump year Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars. (Picture: graciousness of A Collected Man )

The purported “little lettering” of a Mark 1 dial from a steel 25654ST. (Picture: graciousness of A Collected Man )

No jump year here. (Picture: kindness of A Collected Man )

Back to the first 5554-25554 close by, at twelve, we discover the month marker; at three, the date; at six, the combined running seconds and moon-stage; at nine, the day sign. The Royal Oak’s unmistakable octagonal outline is kept up by a solitary crown on the correct case flank, and the 5554-25554 went ahead a metal-coordinated incorporated wristband (likewise a characterizing plan component for the Royal Oak). This overall arrangement would hold for nine authority long stretches of creation and almost 1,600 delivered models before the transition to the jump year-prepared 2120/2802 would stir up the model reach in 1993 (however, as gives off an impression of being common for AP, there was a cover underway between both specifications). 

Before we dive in, remember that the entirety of the accompanying references utilize the very same development and, as you’ll see, many were created and sold in a very covering style. Indeed, even by 1983, AP was as yet a little company, and these were unfathomably complex watches to make. Furthermore, extraordinariness shifts, however even the most common references are uncommon by the proportion of practically any restricted version made today, and it’s significant that of the absolute ten references, six of them add up to just 11 pieces and four of those are interesting pieces. 

Additionally, these models pre-date the significant expansion in the notoriety of the Royal Oak in the course of the last five to ten years. Add to that the way that AP supposedly restricted worldwide appropriation of the 25554 and its brethren, and you get a reach regarding announced yearly accessibility. Hence, on the off chance that you take sell off postings as gospel (I would recommend that you don’t), you will see 2120/2800 model Royal Oak postings that are ascribed to creation dates into the mid-to-late ’90s.

An mid 25554BA in yellow gold with a white dial. (picture by means of Sotheby’s)

While the accessible information isn’t awesome, we do realize that Audemars Piguet dispatched the refreshed (and jump year-prepared) 2120/2802 out of 1993 yet that the substitution was steady. All things considered, given the jump year sign, it’s by and large not very difficult to tell the previous 2120/2800 models from the later generations. As a last note prior to getting to the particular references, as you’ll find in the later sale postings, these early Royal Oak QPs throughout the fall inside C and D-arrangement case numbers. While pretty much the sky is the limit, this record is upheld by the authorities I talked with, by past closeouts, and by Audemars Piguet straightforwardly.

Having covered the 5554-25554 over, how about we perceive how the other nine references stack up. 

25624 (1 piece)
Also dispatched in 1984, this is a one-of-one yellow-gold model with a coordinating gold dial and a bezel with precious stones in its slanted edge. 

25636 (264 pieces)

This is a madly cool skeleton dial reference (with show caseback) that began creation in 1983 however didn’t hit the public domain until more like 1986. Developing on the arrangement of the 25554 and the 25654, the 25636 was offered in a few renditions, including two-tone. Everything considered, AP included 126 in yellow gold, 52 in steel, 49 out of two-tone, 34 in platinum, and only three in pink gold. 

A uncommon platinum 25636PT Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. (Picture: civility of A Collected Man )

A uncommon platinum 25636PT Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. (Picture: civility of A Collected Man )

The caseback of a platinum 25635PT model showing the skeletonized finish of the 2120/2800 development. (Picture: civility of A Collected Man )

25652 (1 piece)
Not dissimilar to the 25624, the 25652 was basically an extraordinary yellow-gold 25636 with a jewel rimmed bezel.

5654-25654 (800 pieces)

The four-digit reference should educate you that this is likewise an early model from the run. Delivered in corresponding with the 5554-25554, the 5645-25654 is the most common reference inside the pre-jump year 2120/2800 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars. Somewhere in the range of 1982 and 1993, AP would make about 800 instances of the 25654, remembering 422 for yellow gold, 272 in steel, 72 of every two-tone, 33 in platinum, and one in white gold. Justifiably, these are the most commonly discovered references and can without much of a stretch be confused with a 5554-25554, as the thing that matters is very unobtrusive: It’s the case thickness. 

An early C-arrangement 25654BA with a coordinating gold dial. (Picture: politeness of A Collected Man )

Remember how I referenced that water obstruction in a meager, lively, and extremely complicated watch is an enormous specialized assignment? All things considered, on the off chance that you have such a watch today, you can thank these early Royal Oaks for the water-opposition you probably take for granted.

Other dial renditions of the 25654, including a Mark 2 dark dial and a brilliant Mark 1 MOP dial. (Images: graciousness of Watches2.8 on Instagram (left) Timetowatchdk (right) on Instagram ). 

More Mother-Of-Pearl dial 25654s (Images: kindness of Timetowatchdk on Instagram ). 

A 25654ST in steel with a coordinating dark Mark 2 dial. (Images: politeness of Watches2.8 on Instagram )

Producing the first 5554-25554 with 20 meters of water obstruction end up being an extensive undertaking (one that basically no other company was in any event, endeavoring at that point), and while setting out on the expanded creation of the 25654, Audemars Piguet expanded the case thickness by 0.75mm (from 7.5 to 8.25mm). In the Rolex world, or maybe for a watch delivered in more prominent numbers, this change would have justified a type of epithet, however here, you simply get a somewhat thicker and more vigorous form of a generally slim watch. 

The side profile of a reference 25654, which became somewhat thicker than the 25554 to guarantee appropriate water obstruction. Note how the corrector pushers for the development are set close by the gasket between the case and bezel. (Picture: politeness of A Collected Man )

Like the 5554-25554, the 25654 was offered in a few dial variations, and I got recounted data that would propose, given the extensive asking value, Audemars Piguet probably was available to asks for. Thusly, there are an amazing scope of potential emphasess, from the smooth silver (which AP calls “Opaline Gray”) to gold, dark (uncommon), salmon, and even blue tapisserie, mother-of-pearl, pink and red with jewel markers, and more. 

25659 (4 pieces)

This reference was made with three pieces in yellow gold and one in platinum, and each of the four models included a skeleton dial and a full treatment of pavé jewels for the case, bezel, and even the bracelet. 

25686 (233 pieces)

The fourth-most-created emphasis is another center model that extended alternatives from the 25554 and 25654 with creation beginning in 1987 and deals starting in 1989. With 233 pieces traversing 85 in steel, 70 in yellow gold, 43 of every two-tone, 26 in platinum, and nine in pink gold, the 25686 is basically another run of 25654s however with a presentation caseback and a considerably more extensive scope of dial contributions (in a way like that of the 25654 referenced above). 

25687 (3 pieces)

With only one model made in yellow gold and a couple in platinum, these pearl set adaptations had metal-coordinated dials and jewels set despite the bezel (versus past precious stone set forms that had jewels in the bezel edge). 

25688 (1 piece)

The first of two last gaudy platinum models, the 25688 was portrayed by an ice-blue dial and a full pavé treatment of loaf precious stones. Hen’s teeth, unicorns – and stuff like this. 

25694 (1 piece)

Another interesting piece dressed in platinum, the 25694 was made in 1988 and sold in 1990. Shaking a skeletonized dial with rich blue accents, the 25964 was done with a jewel set bezel of substituting precious stones and sapphires.

Imprint 1 and Mark 2 Dials

For the little community of gatherers that fixate on these early RO QPs, there are two fundamental variations of the dial, Mark 1 and Mark 2. The thing that matters is not difficult to spot, with the prior Mark 1 dials utilizing a more modest text style for “Audemars Piguet” on the dial and later Mark 2 dials utilizing an ordinarily promoted and bigger textual style for the nameplate. You can discover an illustration of both below:

The to some degree more uniform textual style plan of a Mark 1 dial found on a 25654BA. (Picture: politeness of A Collected Man )

According to my examination, albeit not checked by any authority record past that of gatherers and sale postings, Mark 1 dials are by and large restricted to the early C-Series models however can be found in early D-Series too. One other note for those needing the most granular of subtleties: Early Royal Oak QPs utilized a crease over fasten with a little wellbeing while later models (D-Series) were fitted with a press button catch release.  

An illustration of a Mark 2 dial. Notice the more characterized utilization of estimating for “A” and “P” in the nameplate. (Picture under permit through Jeroen Vink) 

For what reason Should You Care?

Aside from being Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars (otherwise known as madly cool), for what reason is this early and now and again failed to remember scope of watches worth such investigation? Indeed, to put it plainly, resistance. With a plan brief and development set immovably in the mid ’80s, AP was once more facing an extensive challenge during a difficult time for the whole idea of a top of the line mechanical watch.

Sure, the Royal Oak had at last begun to pay off, however quartz was subverting the whole Swiss watch industry, and if a basic computerized watch could be viewed as intriguing, vanguard, and even classy, what does a little brand like AP do? Essentially, pull out all the stops or go home.

Looking at the achievement of the previously mentioned – and exceptionally customary –  5548-25548, the company faced a challenge and pressed that development into the Royal Oak – and afterward multiplied somewhere around creating its new QP in steel. Today, steel watches from any semblance of Audemars Piguet (or undoubtedly, any of the brand’s companions) are enormously famous and frequently difficult to purchase at retail. 

A two-tone steel and gold 25654SA (Image: politeness of Audemars Piguet). 

Back in 1981, Patek Philippe had ceased the long-standing and never-in-steel 3448, offering rather the 3450 which was likewise never made in steel yet said (it with me currently) include a jump year indicator. 

You could say that Audemars Piguet got fortunate when the first 5402 Royal Oak didn’t sink the brand in 1972, however I’d contend it probably been tremendously visionary to look past the quartz emergency, staff up, and make not just an incredible old fashioned perpetual schedule (once more, that is the 5548-25548), yet then take its development and put it into a much more hazardous (and testing) stage like the Royal Oak. 

A Mark 1 dial 25654ST. (Picture: politeness of A Collected Man )

The 39mm 25654ST on wrist. (Picture: civility of A Collected Man )

Then, in delivering nearly 458 models in steel, while additionally being one of the lone brands to make such a watch for pretty much the decade, you can see the danger. These watches, particularly those in steel, are profoundly collectible today, and they totally foreshadowed the current market notoriety of steel sports watches from very good quality brands, to say little of exactly how cherished the Royal Oak has become all on its own. 

Actually, how about we go there (we’ve just come this far). Today, the advanced articulation of the mid 2120/2800 Royal Oak QP is the reference 26574. Initially dispatched in 2015, the 26574 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is 41mm wide, 9.5mm thick, and has 20 meters of water opposition. Alongside its new size, the 26574 has a refreshed development, the 5134. 

A assortment of current 26574 Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars. 

Still dependent on the 2120 I’ve referenced already, the 5134 holds a similar four sub-dial format yet adds another component from the most punctual long periods of AP’s perpetual schedule advancement: a fringe date show with a midway mounted date hand. Much the same as the will they/will not they of the jump year sign, this is a fascinating association back to the second, third, and fourth periods of the reference 5516.

Underrespected Or Over-advertised?

A platinum 25636. (Picture: politeness of A Collected Man ) 

While comparable in numerous regards, the scene encompassing the 25554 and its kin is boundlessly not the same as that encompassing the advanced 26574. During the ’80s and ’90s, the warmth encompassing the Royal Oak was in its soonest organizes, and the watch scene overall was not described by shortlists, flipping brokers, and monstrous optional market premiums.

Today, the Royal Oak appreciates request that limitlessly outperforms its creation, and practically paying little heed to spec or complication, these are not watches you can simply waltz into a store and buy. 

Clipping by means of © Europa Star 

Back in 1993, a gold 25645BA conveyed a great rundown cost of 261,000 French francs. Convert that to USD at that point, and invested individuals were taking a gander at a sticker price of around $45,000 – in 1993. Need that with expansion? How’s $80,700 sound? For some specific situation, the rundown cost of a 16610 Rolex Submariner Date in 1996 was $3,350 or about $5,500 in the present dollars. To complete the image, the current rundown cost for an advanced 26574 is $63,000 for steel, $95,700 for gold, and $166,800 for platinum.

For another purpose of evaluating information, take a gander at the cut-out from a 1998 issue of Europa Star (right) that broadcasts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to be “…Still The Most Expensive Steel Watch In The World” while providing a rundown cost estimate of 23,600 Swiss francs. Adapted to cash in March of 1998 and afterward for swelling to 2020, and we get a somewhat engaging $25,194. While the cited figure feels a major piece lower than I would anticipate given the delta among steel and gold models at retail, the feature features exactly how AP had situated the Royal Oak QP once upon a time – and how it was seen by those covering the business in the late ’90s. 

Finally, I set aside some effort to burrow through closeout results with the expectations of finding out about how valuing possesses changed over energy for these frequently neglected Royal Oaks. While coming up next is certainly not a complete picture, I figure it assists with showing the way that Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars have been esteemed over the previous decade and features the valuing contrast among steel and yellow-gold models. I for the most part endeavored to adhere to the more normal 25654 references and have changed money for USD on the date of the deal (these numbers are not adapted to swelling to 2020). 

June 1999 – 25686 (platinum, ice-blue dial): ~$31,300 at Christies

September 2000 – 25654 (yellow gold): ~ $12,777 at Christies

October 2001 – 25654 (yellow gold): ~ $12,250 at Christies

November 2005 – 25636 (steel, skeleton): ~ $24,960 at Christies

May 2006 – 25654 (steel, blue tap dial): ~ $21,900 at Christies

November 2007 – 25653 (steel): ~ $24,300 at Sotheby’s

June 2010 – 25636 (steel/platinum, skeleton): $32,500 at Christies

November 2011 – 25654 (yellow gold): ~ $35,400 Christies

December 2011 – 25636 (steel, skeleton): $31,250 at Christies

June 2012 – 25654 (steel/platinum): $20,000 at Christies

December 2013 – 25654 (yellow gold): $20,000 at Sotheby’s

May 2015 – 25654 (steel, steel dial): ~ $25,400 at Christies

June 2015 – 25654 (yellow gold): $18,750 at Sotheby’s

May 2016 – 25654 (yellow gold): ~ $25,500 at Christies

May 2016 – 25654 (steel, blue dial): ~ $35,300 at Christies

October 2016 – 25654 (steel, blue dial): $42,500 at Christies

March 2017 – 25636 (steel, skeleton): $72,500 at Christies

December 2017 – 25654 (platinum and pink gold): $37,500 at Sotheby’s

November 2017 – 25654 (yellow gold, gold dial): ~ $40,000 at Sotheby’s

November 2018 – 25654 (steel): $37,500 at Christies

April 2019 – 25654 (steel and yellow gold, white dial): $18,750 at Sotheby’s

May 2019 – 25554 (yellow gold, white dial): ~ $32,100 at Sotheby’s

June 2019 – 25654 (yellow gold): $43,750 at Christies

June 2019 – 25636 (yellow gold, skeleton): $93,750 at Sotheby’s

July 2020 – 25654 (steel, blue dial): ~ $110,300 at Christies

While not unadulterated or even effectively contextualized information, I figure we can see that, in the recent years, the qualities have spiked (normal) and that, comparatively, the individuals who needed a valuable metal Royal Oak QP ten (or more) quite a while back might have expected to get something of an arrangement (when compared to the present qualities, with in excess of a couple exchanging for well under $20,000). 

In Closing

Despite its longstanding history in watchmaking, the Royal Oak has come to characterize Audemars Piguet’s advanced setting. Which began as a trying to up-market take on a games watch would in the long run advance to incorporate the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, a combination of old school AP schedule watchmaking and the brand’s then cutting edge octagonal games watch. 

A gold 25654BA. (Picture: graciousness of A Collected Man )

While not frequently recollected, and for quite a while ostensibly underestimated, with the consistent move in notoriety for the Royal Oak, increasingly more consideration has been applied to the brand’s previous trials with the structure. With a practical association that returns to Audemars Piguet’s soonest QPs, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar encouraged AP to zig at whatever point others crossed. These watches assisted AP with enduring the quartz emergency and assisted with making an interpretation of the Royal Oak into a genuine presence in haute horlogerie. While just piece of the brand’s way to its current achievement, the 5554 and its 2120/2800-controlled kin without a doubt raised Audemars Piguet’s profile all through the ’80s and ’90s and laid the foundation for the Royal Oak’s new and unrivaled ascent in both lover and mainstream society mindshares. 


For your assistance, tolerance, and general accessibility over the recent months, I might want to say thanks to Michael Friedman, Raphaël Balestra, Sébastian Vivas, and the whole group at Audemars Piguet, Paul Lerner at Optimist Consulting, Robert and the group at A Collected Man, Teddy of Watches2.8, Jeroen Vink, and Geoff Isringhausen Jr. I was unable to have assembled this all without your assistance and I incredibly appreciate every single content, email, picture, and goody of guidance.

Introducing The Ressence Type 3MC For The Prince Albert II Of Monaco Foundation
Previous Post
Introducing The Ressence Type 3MC For The Prince Albert II Of Monaco Foundation
Bring a Loupe An Olympic Seiko, A Deep-Diving Girard-Perregaux, And A First-Execution Heuer Autavia
Next Post
Bring a Loupe An Olympic Seiko, A Deep-Diving Girard-Perregaux, And A First-Execution Heuer Autavia