Interview Marie-Laure Cérède, Timepieces Creation Director At Cartier
In 2017, Marie-Laure Cérède assumed the part of Timepieces Creation Director at Cartier – a situation with interesting obligations. The heaviness of convention at Cartier is felt maybe more vigorously than at a portion of its companions, because of its custodianship of probably the most suffering and vital plans in watchmaking. To take a gander at Cartier’s arrangement of watches is to be reminded exactly how powerful its center plan language has been, throughout the only remaining century – watches like the Tank, the Baignoire, the Tonneau, Tortue, Santos, and others have each in their way produced entire ages of posterity, and have been compelling in manners that their creators presumably never could have imagined.
Cérède started her profession at Cartier in 2002, and following 12 years with Harry Winston (from 2005 to 2014) she rejoined Cartier. In her present position, adjusting regard for the past with the pressing factors of the present, and the requests of things to come, is her most significant responsibility. This is something that, she advised us during our gathering last January, at the SIHH, truly lives or kicks the bucket in the particular subtleties of each watch.
Cartier Baignoire Allongée, SIHH 2019
That implies thinking about everything – the general state of the watch, how its volume feels on the wrist and in the hand, and how much it embraces and leaves from its archetypes. The current year’s Baignoire models are a case in point.
“You need to take a gander at everything – for instance, one of the keys to our prosperity is that we look at the plan, however at the general volume of the watch, you need to ensure the volume fits the wrist consummately. At the creation studio, we generally need to adhere to the absolute first bits of Cartier, ” she advised us. “For example, our commitment to slimness is vital. In any case, it’s trying. On the off chance that I take for instance the Baignoire – in 1958, the glass was plexiglass. So with a sapphire glass, it’s difficult to have a similar shape so every time individuals take a gander at the piece and say, ‘Gracious, it’s the equivalent’ – it’s not; it’s a hard specialized and innovative test, however we’re extremely committed to that.”
Feel And Mechanics At Cartier
Complicated watches at Cartier likewise need to fit inside the general Cartier plan ethos. One of the current year’s most fascinating presentations was the Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time, which fits a formed, bended development in a tonneau case. It’s an exemplary illustration of effective critical thinking, says Cérède, as far as making something which is new, yet which additionally addresses a fundamental part of Cartier’s watchmaking – that specialists is never an end in itself, yet rather, incorporated to the general stylish and enthusiastic effect of the watch.
“You recall the CPCP (Collection Privée Cartier Paris) Two Time Zone? Carole [Forestier, head of development plan at Cartier] and I had a conversation about the new Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time. We needed to have just a single development, not two, to help the entirety. So there’s just a single development, and it empowers us to skeletonize everything. What’s fascinating here is that the development is bended – the middle is level and the two stuff trains are bended, to impeccably coordinate the state of the case. It’s significant for us in light of the fact that bended watches are essential for our patrimony, as are secret timekeepers and watches, or skeletonized watches. It’s a valuable complication, and this is the way we define looks for men at Cartier. It’s a skeletonized watch, however it’s a day by day wear piece, you can wear it consistently as well.”
The Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time.
The development powers both time shows and is bended to fit inside the case.
Likewise, the current year’s new Baignoire watches keep a solid association with the firsts, however with steady upgrades and updates that help keep the plan fresh.
Speaking of the Baignoire Allongée models, Cérède says, “The volume is exceptionally intriguing the manner in which we have done it. The studs are etched to the entire volume, they follow the shape impeccably. And afterward, we likewise consider the touch, you know, how it feels. We need it to look confident yet in addition to have a delicate, smooth touch. So it’s not about taking a gander at the watch, but rather likewise about inclination it, wearing it, and this is about the consistency of our item. The material angle, that is vital. We did some slight alteration (to the first Baignoire) yet it’s consistently to improve the piece, year after year.”
Despite Cartier’s solid legacy, and its grounded and many years old essential plan jargon, Cérède actually respects the current fixation on vintage watches and watchmaking with some alert – she feels that it can excessively handily become a matter of ticking off “vintage” plan signs without having any genuine or significant association with the past.
Vintage Cartier Tank Cintrée in platinum.
“For me,” she comments, “vintage is a pattern. There is a decent piece of vintage and a terrible part – individuals are effectively searching for a vintage piece, however on the off chance that another watch simply looks vintage, there is no importance there. One might say, there isn’t anything. There are some new brands that have been exploiting this, particularly for the twenty to thirty year olds – it’s fascinating however when does it mean anything?”
“We must be associated with our heritage, yet in addition to the current climate, in the event that we pick the correct qualities. Since my anxiety is likewise that we make another exemplary [watch] for later. To simply mirror the past, this isn’t how we are taking a gander at things at Cartier.”
Conventions Of Masculine And Feminine Design
Cartier customarily has been one of the world’s chiefs in making what are viewed as female watches, but then simultaneously, the clearness and style of its most exemplary plans are neither characteristically manly or ladylike – they’re simply acceptable plans that have stood the trial of time because of their own natural qualities. Cérède feels that there’s as yet a job for the idea of a women’s watch in the ordinary sense, yet that it’s likewise fundamental for what that will be a matter for proceeded with investigation and evolution.
“I think this is one of the primary developments of extravagance, of elegance watchmaking. I don’t think as far as sex just when planning a watch, however here and there I should imbue manly qualities into certain particular models. Yet, I know toward the end, without a doubt, we will have numerous women wearing it.”
Cartier Tank Normale, platinum, 1938
“In a way, making a watch for a woman, or making a watch for a man, for men – it doesn’t mean anything now. Furthermore, even in the studio, you know it’s fun, we have extremely wonderful and very [traditionally] female watches which have been made and drawn by men. And yet, we need to chip away at building up another dialect for women’s watches.”
What we anticipate from companies like Cartier, which address old fashioned extravagance at its generally conventional however which likewise have a worldwide presence, has been changed, presumably perpetually, by the appearance of the internet. Every day perceivability and analysis are presently the thing to get done, and this combined with a yearly item improvement cycle which isn’t the most normal for fine watchmaking, implies that plan groups are working under higher tension, and for higher stakes, than any time in recent memory. Nonetheless, Cérède says that it’s fundamental, for her and her group, to work without permitting day by day investigation to occupy them from the work at hand.
Rose gold Cartier Tank Cintrée, SIHH 2019.
“People are better educated. I think this is almost in which extravagance has changed. Individuals are increasingly more started into extravagance, particularly the more youthful age, in light of the internet without a doubt. They know it all. Yet, for me this is something to be thankful for, on the grounds that they request consistency and creativity. This implies we need to figure out something remarkable without fail, and for the innovative group it’s a ton of pressing factor. You need to have the most elevated level of assembling and craftsmanship in all things. Also, I think this is something we find real success at Cartier, part of the way since it’s exceptionally collegial work.”
100 Years Of Watchmaking At Cartier
In 2017 we went inside Cartier’s documents to take a gander at an astonishing choice of exemplary vintage models. Look at our Historical Perspectives Video here. (Above, vintage Cartier Baignoire Allongée.)
“However, in my studio, actually I think we need to not work under that tension. There is a pressing factor, sure, however we would prefer not to feel it, since we’re not imaginative in the event that we do as such. And afterward, and this is vital, we have the freedom from Cartier, the opportunity, to deny a piece on the off chance that it isn’t all around accomplished, and to not dispatch it. There are pieces we have been dealing with for quite a long time or even years, that we needed to present at this SIHH, and we didn’t do it. What’s more, there’s no issue with that – it’s normal.”
The extreme basic analysis for any watch configuration delivered at Cartier, is a straightforward however exacting one, and guaranteeing that each plan is unmistakably and unquestionably Cartier is an unforgiving, yet fundamental standard.
“Well, this is actually the last inquiry, you know. At the point when I’m doing a last review, the inquiry is consistently, ‘Is it Cartier or not?’ Whether it’s new or roused by the past, it must be marked Cartier. So for me, Cartier is about, as it were, the mark, where craftsmanship, style and quality come together. You need to feel the consistency and I’m glad that individuals do, yet it isn’t so much that easy.”
For more on watchmaking at Cartier, visit Cartier.com.