Introducing The 100th Anniversary Cartier Tank Cintrée Limited Edition
Last week, Cartier unobtrusively reported another watch. All things considered, not actually new, and unquestionably not “reported.” Pictures of another Cartier Tank Cintrée Limited Edition, in festival of the 100th birthday celebration of the watch, started coursing among the very close circle of genuine Cartier gatherers on Instagram, and in spite of the way that Cartier had decided to dispatch perhaps the most compelling Tanks in ongoing memory by just conveying it to customers and allowing the Internet to wrap up, the watch turned into a short-term celebrity.
The Cartier Tank was presented commercially in 1919, and in the 15 or so years following the dispatch of the first Tank Normale, practically every significant variety appeared, under the bearing of Louis Cartier. The different models – the Allongée, the Cintrée, the Basculante, and numerous others – were an explosion of imaginative energy with barely any equals throughout the entire existence of the wristwatch. The primary variation on the Normale was the Cintrée, in 1921, with its particular bended case (“Cintrée signifies “bended”) which gave the lengthened plan both enormous presence, and furthermore made it, regardless of the measurements, incredibly comfortable to wear.
For the 100th commemoration of the Tank Cintrée, Cartier has presented another restricted version Cintrée which, while not a precise proliferation of a specific vintage model, catches precisely all the style and appeal of numerous exemplary vintage models. The accuracy with which the 100th Anniversary model catches the appeal of the first plan of 1921 is difficult to exaggerate – the touchpoints sum to what, to the unenlightened, may seem like minor focuses, yet together, they make magic.
As with all Tank models, it’s extremely hard to make speculations regarding the Cintrée other than as far as fundamentals – Tank watches were, for a long time, not generally held in stock in Cartier shops, however specially made, and frequently somewhat were in this way interesting pieces.
Design drawing for a 1935 Tank Cintrée made for Princess Mdivani, conceived Louise Van Alen. Cartier files. (The marriage was not a success).
However, there were a few highlights found, particularly during the 1920s, as a rule. Habitually, Cartier utilized Breguet-style hands and, quite often, a chemin-de-fer minutes track, just as prolonged Roman numerals. The extended, bended case is, obviously, common to all Cintrée models (and it’s which isolates them from the Allongée). Additionally common to all Cintrée models are the thick brancards, which are with respect to the case generally speaking, heavier than in the Tank Normale, and which unequivocally underline the general case calculation. Nonetheless, perhaps the most great highlights of the Cintrée case is that the impression of underscored rectilinear structure you get from taking a gander at the watch head-on gives path in profile to a melodious beauty. I’ve in every case especially cherished this nature of the Cintrée plan, and it’s such an easy visual skillful deception that is normal for Cartier at its best – maybe you were taking a gander at a piece of engineering that appeared nearly Brutalist at one point, and uncompromisingly Neo-Classical from another.
Vintage Tank Cintrée models; left to right, Cartier Paris, 1959; Cartier Paris, 1963; Cartier New York, 1946; and Cartier London, 1963. Studio Gérard, © Cartier.
This combination of tempting slimness and thorough math is there, to say the least, in the 100th Anniversary Limited Edition. The new watch appears to be a lot of proposed to advance to fanatics of Cartier when all is said in done, however to devotees who comprehend what the Cintrée addresses as far as the company’s set of experiences and the historical backdrop of watchmaking overall.
Case estimations are not in every case particularly enlightening with regards to seeing how a watch will glance and feel in the metal, however for this situation, they’re quite interesting – the new Cintrée is 46.30mm x 23mm and simply 6.40mm thick. The length isn’t just something that shouldn’t drive you away, but on the other hand it’s sort of the general purpose of the watch – that length, with the profoundly bowed case, gives a similar visual razzle-amaze and dynamite wearability that has made the Cintrée a symbol of Cartier plan for a hundred years.
Left, Tank Cintrée wristwatch, claimed by Fred Astaire; Cartier London, 1929. N. Welsh, Collection Cartier © Cartier. Right, Tank Cintrée wristwatch, Cartier Paris, 1924. Platinum, gold, one sapphire cabochon, cowhide tie. Cartier Collection. C. Vincent Wulveryck, Collection Cartier © Cartier
The LE contrasts in some fascinating manners from the standard creation model that appeared in 2018. The two renditions have the chemin-de-fer minute track in common, however the new restricted release has various highlights the normal creation model doesn’t, including Breguet-style hands and lengthened Roman numerals. The new LE additionally overlooks the “Swiss Made” legend at 6:00, which was clearly disputable among some Cartier aficionados when the most recent adaptations appeared in 2018. The eggshell dial and conventional state of the blue cabochon crown likewise help to solidly put the watch in the conservative camp – I think positively; you get a totally exemplary articulation of Cartier plan, however the entire thing actually feels contemporary, which I think says a ton regarding the amount Louis Cartier got right the first run through, in 1921.
The just thing that makes me somewhat pitiful is that it’s a restricted release – I wish it were a standard creation model, since I think like never before, having the option to purchase a watch that is as immediate and as substantial an association with the past is significant. There are 150 of these, and they’re $29,900 bucks. I firmly presume that given the blast of interest in Cartier exemplary plans nowadays (in my most out of this world fantasies I never suspected I’d see Cartier London Crash watches go for what they’re going for) that on the off chance that they are not effectively totally represented, they’re accursed close. In any case, possibly I shouldn’t be too sadness blasted on that score. Tank watches of any sort were truly an extraordinariness. Cartier made precisely six Tanks in 1919, and an aggregate of just 40 Tank watches, all models combined, in 1921. A vessel’s not a chalice that you can have for the asking.
Photo Credits: All live images aside from wrist shot by Andy Kyaw ( @andykyaw ); wrist shot by Alvin Chong ( @watchrology ) and a major thank you to these gentlemen for offering the images to the HODINKEE community!
Cartier Tank Cintrée Watch For The 100th Anniversary Of The Tank Cintrée: Manufacture mechanical development with manual winding, type 9780 MC. 18k yellow-gold case, beaded crown set with a cabochon sapphire, beige dial, blued-steel apple-formed hands, beige smooth calfskin lash, 18k yellow gold ardillon clasp. Case measurements: 46.30mm x 23mm thickness: 6.40mm. Numbered restricted release of 150 pieces, $29,900. For more data please visit www.cartier.com or contact 1-800-CARTIER.