Introducing The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel
Putting a finish to one of the most exceedingly terrible kept mysteries in the Swiss watch industry, Doxa has reported the arrival of a restricted version SUB 200 T.Graph jump chronograph in hardened steel. On the off chance that you’ll review, at Baselworld 2019, the company, possessed by the Jenny family, delivered a 13-piece version of a similar watch in strong gold for an eye-watering $70,000. It was met with wariness and interest by the watch press and public, while the Doxa loyal were annoyed that there was certainly not a moderate steel variant. Indeed, we realized one was coming, and here it is: the 300-piece restricted release steel SUB 200 T.Graph Professional.
The new Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph treated steel restricted edition.
First, a little foundation. Doxa was one of the graybeard Swiss brands, tracing all the way back to 1889, known principally for its chronographs and dashboard clocks. In the last part of the 1960s, it collaborated with an individual from Team Zissou, er… Cousteau, to build up a definitive plunging watch, complete with a protected no-deco scale bezel, curiously large moment hand, gobs of tritium lume, and a creative tightening arm band fasten. Doxa bet everything for plunge watches and turned into the decision of an age of subaquatic wayfarers. They even shared the patent for the gas get away from valve with Rolex and, in 1969, came a jumping chronograph: the T.Graph, which utilized a handwound section wheel development from its Synchron stablemate, Eberhard. The T.Graph was made in very restricted numbers – only 300 of every one of every forms with an orange, silver, or dark dial.
The creator’s vintage T.Graph Searambler.
I will not give the full history of Doxa, or the T.Graph, since I’ve done that twice previously, here and here . Be that as it may, quick forward to the mid 2000s, post-Quartz Crisis. The Jenny family had gained the Doxa name, selling mostly quartz watches in Eastern Europe and Asia, when an ardent gatherer, Rick Marei, moved toward them about restoring the SUB line of plunge looks for another age. The subsequent twenty years saw various cycles of the famous Doxa SUB, in various case sizes, dial tones and co-marking associations. Marei had an eye for detail and his re-gave Doxa jumpers were proof. In 2017 came the 50th commemoration SUB 300, which was broadly viewed as extraordinary compared to other re-made vintage pieces at any cost. However, everybody was hanging tight for the 50th commemoration of the incredible T.Graph.
A 18 months back, sitting in a gathering at Baselworld 2018, my own vintage T.Graph on wrist, Marei gladly pulled out a model steel T.Graph re-issue, basically the watch we find in the current week’s dispatch. It was a carbon copy for the vintage variant, directly down to the interesting dial text style, idiosyncratic counter hands, and bulbous 43mm x 46mm x 15mm case. Inside ticked another old stock Valjoux 7734, not an Eberhard, but rather close enough – handwound, with two registers. It was as ideal a re-issue just like the SUB 300 the prior year. I completely expected to see it dispatch toward the finish of 2018 or, at the most recent, Baselworld 2019. And afterward came the gold form, what might be compared to the mic drop. Responses were blended however enthusiastic (I detested it), yet in any case, it was one of the greatest ideas of the Basel fair.
Hands-on with the re-issue at Baselworld 2018.
In an official statement from a week ago, Doxa declared an adjustment in administration structure, with Rick Marei no longer with the company. And afterward, this week, the new T.Graph was reported as a 300-piece restricted version. It addresses maybe a waiting coda and Marei’s last curtain call as boss of these odd one out jumpers, and the reality of the situation will become obvious eventually on the off chance that it addresses the finish of a period for Doxa or another beginning.
The unique T.Graph was sold with two adaptations of bezel: in feet, for the American market, or meters for, all things considered, wherever else. In the U.S., it cost $179, sold in jump shops that were U.S. Jumpers Co. retailers, the company Jacques Cousteau himself began. Today, the re-issue SUB 200 T.Graph costs $4,900, significantly more extreme than its apparatus watch precursor, and more than some competitor chronographs of today, from any semblance of Tudor or Longines. All things considered, it is an uncommon piece, really restricted because of its vintage development, that honors a significantly more extraordinary vintage watch that authorities want. It additionally is just being sold with an orange dial (the “Professional”), the shading most connected with Doxa jump watches. There’s no word on future dark (Sharkhunter) or silver (Searambler) adaptations, however given the shortage of Valjoux 7734 developments, it’s dicey they’ll be coming.
Faithful directly down to the marked crown.
The just concessions to innovation that this new T.Graph has, are a sapphire gem, instead of the mineral glass of the first, and a refreshed “grains of rice” wristband with a standard foldover fasten with jump augmentation. I most definitely couldn’t want anything more than to see Doxa re-engineer the extending spring-stacked and tightening catch that was relatively revolutionary during the 1960s, yet the new arm band is devoted in looks and above and beyond for ordinary use, in any event, for diving.
Speaking of wet work, the re-gave T.Graph is evaluated for 20atm, what could be compared to 200 meters of water pressure, which makes it totally reasonable for plunging, even with no locking chronograph push-pieces. I have jumped with one of my vintage T.Graphs after a full assistance thus would not stop for a second to take the upgraded one profound, should the chance at any point present itself.
The creator jumping with his 1969 T.Graph Sharkhunter.
The SUB 200 T.Graph is no uncertainty an eccentric watch with polarizing style. Individuals either love or disdain Doxas. However, there’s no denying the unbelievable job the company’s jump watches played throughout the entire existence of submerged timekeeping. Vintage forms spring up occasionally, normally damaged and gouged from long periods of hard use. The Doxa dedicated hold tight information on new versions, watches that all basically resemble the other the same yet are gobbled up when they’re reported. So regardless of whether this new T.Graph re-issue despises wide allure (on the off chance that you’ve perused this far, odds are you’re not kidding “love” camp), with just 300 pieces being sold, these definitely will not keep going long and this leviathan will by and by slip underneath the surface.
A face just a Cousteau could love?
The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph treated steel will be accessible for request on September second on Doxa’s site .
The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel: case, 43mm x 46mm, thickness 15mm with screw down crown; water opposition 20 bar/200 meters; screw-down caseback with boat etching. Sapphire precious stone with single direction bezel. Development, new old stock Valjoux 7734, programmed with hand twisting running in 17 gems at 2.5Hz/18,000 vph. Dial, Orange with dark painted files and white lume. Lash, tempered steel “dots of rice” with screw connection. Collapsing fasten with wetsuit augmentation. Cost, $4,900.