Introducing The Grand Seiko Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGZ005 And Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGW260
This year points various significant commemorations for Seiko, just as for Grand Seiko – it’s the 60th commemoration of the primary Grand Seiko, obviously, however it is likewise the 140th commemoration of the establishing of Seiko itself. Similarly as essentially, it’s the 160th commemoration of the introduction of Kintaro Hattori, the originator of Seiko. Out of appreciation for the event, Grand Seiko has delivered two exceptionally alluring new restricted versions – the Spring Drive SBGZ005, in platinum, commending the commemoration of the introduction of the organizer, and the hand-wound SBGW260, praising the establishing of Seiko itself. The two watches have cases dependent on the plan of the principal Grand Seiko from 1960, which housed the type 3180 (to gatherers, the type has become inseparable from the watch) and was made by Suwa Seikosha, in Nagano, in a purposeful exertion to make as excellent, sturdy, and precise a watch as could be expected. Fantastic Seiko has delivered a few versions dependent on “The First,” in 2011 (restricted release), again in 2017 (restricted version), and again in 2020 (normal creation models).
SBGW252, in gold, 38mm diameter.
The arrangement from 2013 was, as far as size, the most dedicated to the first, at 35.8mm, yet it additionally varied from it in key regards, including the utilization of a crate sapphire precious stone instead of the domed acrylic of the First, just as a strong gold case, as opposed to the 80-micron gold-plated instance of the first. There were other inconspicuous however positive contrasts too, remembering somewhat various carries and a bigger crown for the commemorative model. In 2017, the new restricted releases SBGW251, SBGW252, and SBGW253 returned to 1960 once, yet this time in three distinctive case metals (steel, gold, and platinum) and a marginally bigger, 38mm breadth. At long last, this year, we saw the presentation of SBGW259, SBGW258, and SBGW257 – all with hand-wound developments, and all with show backs. Case materials were marginally unique for the full creation arrangement also – yellow gold, platinum, and, interestingly, Seiko’s unfeeling Brilliant Hard Titanium.
The new restricted releases present some further minor departure from the fundamental topic of the First, including the utilization, interestingly, of a Spring Drive development in a First-based case and the utilization of another rendition of the hand-wound type 9S64, for certain truly obvious adjustments and moves up to the development finish. The SBGZ005 will be created in a store just arrangement of 50, at $103,000, and SBGW260 in a progression of 350 watches, at $29,000 – additionally just accessible in Grand Seiko boutiques.
The Grand Seiko Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGZ005
The Grand Seiko Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGZ005 is, from the start, a very exemplary arrangement of the First case – and at 37.5mm x 9.6mm, a traditionally estimated model too (and slim, considering the 84-hour power save) just somewhat bigger than the first (and gradually more modest than the 38mm 2017 restricted release models).
The case is Zaratsu-cleaned, with the shiny sparkle normal for exceptionally cleaned platinum, and the hands and applied, jewel cleaned markers are in 18k white gold. Regularly, I’d have expected a warmth blued seconds hand, however in this example, Grand Seiko has selected to keep the composition very dark on-white. While a differentiating seconds hand has become something of a Grand Seiko brand name – to see the blued seconds hand on the Snowflake do its thing is to feel within the sight of an extraordinarily quiet sort of horological excellence – I think here, it would can possibly be as a very remarkable interruption as an asset.
Grand Seiko hasn’t said in its delivery material what precisely the cycle is for creating this specific dial, however the outcomes are generally intriguing – a progression of depressions set into what are kind of right triangles with adjusted bases at the rehaut, and with fine equal furrows running corresponding to the more extended leg. These depressions are cut off at the longest side of the triangle – the hypotenuse, on the off chance that we continue with the right-triangle thought – creating the hallucination of discrete lines transmitting from the focal point of the dial.
Unusual and striking dial medicines are a Grand Seiko trademark; I don’t think I’ve at any point seen anything very like this before.
The Grand Seiko Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGZ005 is additionally a first for a First – it’s the first run through Grand Seiko has utilized a Spring Drive development in a First/3180 case.
The development is the hand-wound Spring Drive 9R02, which we saw without precedent for February of this current year, in the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Limited Edition For The twentieth Anniversary Of Spring Drive . The development is unordinary in that, to this point, hand-wound Spring Drive developments have generally been kept to the Credor line – most prominently, obviously, to the Eichi I and II watches, albeit Grand Seiko has additionally utilized a hand-wound 8-Day Spring Drive development in the watch of a similar name . The 9R02 is clearly a kissing cousin (at any rate) to the Eichi II type 7R14, and the two offer various noticeable likenesses, including the utilization of the mark Japanese bellflower (Platycodon grandiflorus, y’all) cover on the origin barrel, just as the frog-looking at-the-moon gems over the type number. The degree of finish is comparable as well.
This watch is created at the Micro-Artist Studio, in Nagano, and it’s somewhat of a homecoming for the First case, which as we referenced was delivered at Suwa Seikosha in Nagano too. This is the first run through a First-enlivened watch has been made there. There is a commemorative gold plaque on the development connect, which is engraved “Miniature Artist,” yet the planned proprietor can request an option engraving.
The Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGW260
The kin to SBGZ005 is housed in a hardly bigger case; SBGW260 is 38mm in distance across (I would say that I resist anybody to differentiate with the two watches close by, yet I wager there are fans out there who could do it). While SBGZ005 utilizes a first in class hand-wound Spring Drive development, SBGW260 utilizes the mechanical, hand-wound type 9S64.
Looking intently, you’ll notice that while SBGZ005 excludes the “Diashock” and gem tally from the dial, SBGW260 holds it. I guess Grand Seiko might have incorporated the gem consider well as a type of against stun verbiage on the dial of SBGZ005 which, all things considered, has train wheels running in gems and antishock frameworks on the keep going train haggle the skim wheel, yet it would have felt somewhat superfluous, if not strange, in that watch. I don’t realize that it would have gotten along with the dial either.
In difference to the inconspicuous example on the dial of SBGZ005, the dial of SBGW260 holds the un-designed, marginally matte feel of the original.
The case and applied, precious stone cleaned files are in 18k gold, and the moment and seconds hands are both delicately radiused, which adds to the serene oldie but a goodie vibe. The entire thing has a warm, coals-at-sunset in-the-chimney gleam, and it makes a very decent case for rose gold (to make a weak joke – really, come to consider it, this is the first run through Grand Seiko has utilized rose gold in a First case; all the past gold models have been in yellow gold). The Grand Seiko Lion is on the caseback, however for those who’ve not been partial to this detail in prior models, it’s important for this situation that it’s anything but a metalized application, yet rather, scratched straightforwardly into the sapphire – undeniably more unpretentious, and practically speaking, it ought to be almost invisible.
The Grand Seiko Lion is scratched into the sapphire caseback.
The hand-wound type 9S64 is one that we have experienced previously; it was first sent by Grand Seiko right back in 2011, where it was utilized without precedent for the SBGW040 First Grand Seiko LE, and the firm utilized it in the 2017 restricted versions, just as the 2020 full creation models. The variant of 9S64 utilized in SBGW260 has had some recognizable updates over those renditions of the movement.
Caliber 9S64 in the 2020 full creation model.
The standard adaptation of 9S64 is an exemplary Grand Seiko plan, both regarding designing and feel. Intended to be solid and exact, with an inflexible 3/4 plate development, it doesn’t have the fine hand-completing of better quality Grand Seiko or Credor developments, however it is nonetheless incredibly precisely executed, with well honed advances between the extension surfaces and flanks, and an overall environment of accuracy hardware made to an extremely exclusive expectation. Indeed, even the verbiage on the plate appears to be proposed to guarantee the proprietor of its specialized bona fides. The adaptation of 9S64 in SBGW260, then again, is a clearly better looking interpretation of this workhorse hand-wound caliber.
The significant contrasts incorporate the utilization of warmth blued cheats the plain cleaned sinks the standard form just as the utilization of slants at the edge of the 3/4 plate. The stripes in the standard rendition have been supplanted with a straight graining (I’m advised it’s classified “hairline” wrapping up by the people at Micro Artist Studio), and there is a gold plate fastened to the development, conveying the Seiko “S” brand name. The completion appears to be planned to establish a connection of an all the more explicitly Japanese tasteful, just as to align the watch more with the better quality Grand Seiko and Eichi Spring Drive types – and to fit better with its SBGZ005 counterpart.
The Ongoing Evolution Of Grand Seiko
Both of these watches stand especially on their own benefits as Grand Seiko watches – fastidiously executed, with extraordinary thoughtfulness regarding make which verges on the fanatical (which is only the manner in which we like it, truth be told). They are both prone to be scrutinized two or three focuses – primarily, on the quantity of restricted versions Grand Seiko is creating by and large; on the increment in estimating at the higher finish of the Grand Seiko range; and on the utilization, indeed, of the First/3180 case. These are, I think, taken all together, something which might be of concern just in the event that it tears apart the development of the normal item list; something to observe however about which not to worry exorbitantly; and ultimately, a matter of individual resilience – there are separating focuses, all things considered, between the 2011 LE, the 2017 LEs, and the 2020 customary creation models.
SBGW260 wrist shot, civility of Grand Seiko’s Joe Kirk, who as of late introduced a talk at the Horological Society Of New York.
In review, I can’t help thinking about how the LEs would have been acknowledged had the case configuration returned into ordinary creation first. In any case, it appears to be that minor departure from the fundamental subject of the First are staying put, and for the time being, Grand Seiko is by all accounts taking consideration to present enough contrasts on the off chance that metal, size, dial treatment, and development completing and innovation to keep probably some sunshine in the middle of them all.
In the five years that I’ve expounded on Grand Seiko for HODINKEE, I’ve seen them develop significantly in both perceivability and exercises – to do as such with all due speed yet not appear to abandon the qualities that made your crowd love you in the first place is a really slick stunt. I give Grand Seiko a considerable amount of credit for standing firm in keeping their degree of art additionally accessible at costs more natural to long haul Grand Seiko fans. There are still quite a few truly excellent Grand Seiko watches accessible for under $6,000 – some well under – and as long as that is valid, festivals like this one actually feel like something in which we can all join.
The Grand Seiko Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGZ005: case, 37.5mm x 9.6mm, platinum, with sapphire precious stones front and back; white-gold jewel cleaned applied markers and hands; water opposition 30 meters. Development, Spring Drive type 9R02, 84-hour power hold; twin origin barrels with Torque Return System to recuperate train energy and return it to the hearts; antimagnetic to 4,800 A/m, hand-twisted with 39 gems and most extreme day by day deviation in pace of ±1 second out of every day/±15 seconds of the month. Shop just restricted release of 50 pieces around the world; cost, $103,000.
Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGW260: case, 18k rose gold, 38mm x 10.9mm, sapphire precious stones front and back; jewel cleaned applied gold markers; water obstruction, 30 meters. Development, Grand Seiko hand-wound mechanical type 9S64, running in 24 gems at 28,800 vph; 72-hour power hold; antimagnetic to 4,800 A/m. Static most extreme deviation in rate, +5/ – 3 seconds/day. Store just restricted release of 350 pieces around the world; cost, $29,000. The two models accessible in January 2021.
Find out additional at Grand Seiko USA . For a glance at whether Spring Drive can be considered to have an escapement, look at our specialized audit from this October, right here.