Introducing The Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraphe GT Annual Calendar Chronograph (Live Pics & Pricing)
Parmigiani Fleurier may not be the primary name on the lips of fine watchmaking devotees when the world’s top haute horlogerie brands are talked about, yet the firm remaining parts, in spite of this, one of the tranquil goliaths of Swiss fine watchmaking. The company was established in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani with the help of the Sandoz Family Foundation. The last has numerous exercises, yet supporting Swiss fine watchmaking is one of its generally significant (the establishment was set up during the 1960s by Edouard-Marcel Sandoz, whose family had established the firm which in the end became Novartis), and Parmigiani Fleurier sits at the focal point of a star grouping of companies which are not especially notable to the normal watch customer or devotee, however which are a focal piece of the design of Swiss watchmaking.
These incorporate Les Artisans Boitiers, which makes cases; Elwin and Atokalpa, which are providers of numerous basic components, including balance springs; and likely the most popular assembling community, Vaucher Manufacture (them you’ve presumably known about) which makes developments for various customers, including Hermès and Richard Mille . Parmigiani Fleurier is, accordingly, ready to draw on huge specialized assets straightforwardly (which numerous different brands can’t), and subsequently, it can make everything from high-grade, time-just wristwatches, up to and including cosmic complications, minute repeaters ,, etc. The company has frequently slashed to a genuinely customary thought of extravagance watchmaking, particularly in its inclination to make observes essentially in valuable metals, yet they have recently presented another chronograph wristwatch in steel – the Tondagraphe GT – which, while especially a haute horlogerie watch, offers usefulness and finish at a value point considerably more open than such a watch would be from for all intents and purposes any of its competitors.
Parmigiani Fleurier’s cases have extents, so author Michel Parmigiani has said, which are gotten from the purported Golden Ratio, a numerical and mathematical relationship which has a somewhat dull-sounding definition (it is an unreasonable number, addressed by the Greek letter phi, and an answer for the quadratic condition x² – x – 1 = 0, in case you’re keen on such a thing). Be that as it may, in math, it can produce the supposed logarithmic twisting which is by all accounts perfectly universal in nature; the Golden Ratio is likewise found in numerous imaginative fields, like craftsmanship, music, and design. The outcome, in down to earth terms, is an overall plan language at the company which will in general give an impression of extremely unpretentious biomorphism; adjusted and extended structures proliferate and there are not many completely straight lines.
The Tondagraphe GT displays this trademark however in a somewhat unobtrusive design. The wristband, for instance, streams naturally from the carries through every one of the side and focus joins, decreasing in width towards the catch; these bends are set off by the state of the chronograph pushers, which look somewhat like a cross-segment of an airfoil, and by such not entirely obvious however significant subtleties as the slight concavity at the point of the case center and the primary arm band interface, and arched profile of the subsequent focus connect. The coin-edge bezel has been a component of Parmigiani watches from the earliest starting point and can be found in the bezel of the Toric Memory Time, which dispatched the year the brand was conceived, and which is as yet author Michel Parmigiani’s own every day watch (and why not; in fine watchmaking, we anticipate a decent watch with a decent plan to give fulfillment for a lifetime, and 1996 isn’t all that long ago).
The 2017 Tonda Chronor, whose plan was the establishment for the Tondagraphe GT.
According to Davide Traxler, Parmigiani’s CEO, the first motivation for the plan of the Tondagraphe GT was the Tonda Chronor rattrapante chronograph – that specific watch is a dining experience for the eyes on each level, with its incredibly refined case and ravishing gold development. The $135,000 Chronor was presented in 2017 and would proceed to win the prize for chronographs at the 2017 GPHG. Says Traxler, “I wished to keep up our center quality and greatness in completing, and furthermore the visual methodology of the Tonda Chronor in the GT assortment The arm band configuration preceded the actual case, as combination was vital and over and over again I have encountered watches where the wristband seems, by all accounts, to be uncoherent. The mix of the metal arm band and elastic lash to the hauls characterized the appearance of the case and at last likewise the dial completing, hands and cleaning choices.”
The general feeling of concordance and all around oversaw extent is, I think, held up well by the dial, which has many components however figures out how to keep them adequately controlled that it doesn’t wander excessively far into looking excessively occupied to its benefit. There is a part going on – the twofold date window, the three sub-dials, the half-measurement running seconds with its twofold length hand, and beneath it, the month sign (we’ll get to for what reason that is there in a second). The dial likewise has a high-grade clous triangulaire guilloché finish, alongside splendidly cleaned rhodium-plated applied files and exceptionally cleaned hands. In any case, here again great administration of extents keeps the dial in the clear – the treatment of the sub-dials keeps them somewhat more out of sight than one for the most part finds in a games (or possibly, sports-nearby) chronograph, and the little sprinkle of orange tone in the date window and month window add barely sufficient fly to keep the dial from feeling too flat.
Again, this is all somewhat quietly done, yet clearly, whatever individual or people are behind the dial configuration were obviously focusing on each component. You may, coincidentally, think you are taking a gander at completely skeletonized hands, yet they’re really loaded up with dark lume at the tips, just like the indexes.
The Tondagraphe GT has as its motor oneself winding (and, clearly, in-house, in the event that you think about Vaucher in-house for Parmigiani, which I do) type PF043, which runs at 28,800 vph in 56 gems; like most Parmigiani developments, it’s genuinely level, at 30mm x 7.40mm. The force save is 45 hours at full wind, and the rotor is 22 karat gold and sparkles rather abundantly against the rhodium of the plates and connects and the steel of the case. The overall design, including the general arrangement of the scaffolds and area of the noticeable gems, recommends a common fundamental engineering with the Manufacture Vaucher Seed VMF 3022 , albeit clearly in a higher evaluation execution. Or maybe incredibly, for a sub-$20,000 extravagance watch, you get a chronograph, however a yearly schedule too (consequently the requirement for the month window, notwithstanding the date).
I’m uncertain about whether how much it’s a mental impact from all the unobtrusive bends of the case and wristband, yet it’s a terribly comfortable watch, either on the arm band (as appeared) or on the discretionary dark elastic lash. I think for me by and by, the wristband would be the more alluring choice just on the grounds that it expands the plan language of the watch case so pleasantly. Regardless, at 42mm x 13.7mm you get a large enough watch to give some consoling haul on the wrist, however one whose size doesn’t mean an oppressive wrist presence, and which conducts itself with impressively more effortlessness than is for the most part the case with 40mm+ steel chronographs.
Annual schedule chronographs are not terribly common, somewhat because of the way that the yearly schedule is a genuinely youthful complication – the absolute previously was from Patek Philippe, and it appeared in 1996 (circumstantially, the year Parmigiani Fleurier was established). Patek Philippe used to destroy one steel – the ref. 5960/1A – which was created from 2014 to 2018 however is not, at this point underway, and a 5905 flyback chronograph with yearly schedule, in gold, will hinder you $65,770 of your #1 dollars. At the lower end of the value range is the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar, which in steel gives you a moderately delicate arriving at $11,900 , but with a slight size punishment; it’s a 43mm watch. For a considerably milder landing, I would be neglectful in not referencing Carl F. Bucherer’s Heritage Bicompax Annual Calendar – pretty alluring at $7,200 , as long as you can live with the ETA base type and Dubois Depraz module. The Tondagraphe GT in steel comes in at, pretty much, twofold the expense of the two competitors at the lower end, at $19,500 on a wristband, yet raises the stakes with a more select development and an exceptionally refined, rather peculiar design.
It’s an unordinary complication from a profoundly respected and huge maker, however to me, what’s generally fascinating about the Tondagraphe GT is the thing that it addresses regarding the development of Michel Parmigiani’s unique thoughts of watch plan. Chronographs will in general have, for evident reasons, genuinely solid family likenesses, yet the Tondagraphe GT deals with the very troublesome accomplishment of helping one to remember nothing other than itself – a develop and certain wristwatch, packed with traditional concordance, for a questionable and violent age.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraphe GT Annual Calendar Chronograph: case, hardened steel, 42mm x 13.7mm, sapphire front and back, with 100 meters’ water opposition. Development, self-winding type PF043, 30mm x 7.4mm; 45-hour power hold, running at 28,800 vph in 56 gems. Restricted version of 200 pieces around the world; cost, $19,500 with a steel wristband; $18,500 on an elastic lash. As of now accessible for pre-request. Discover more at Parmigiani.com.