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It's Complicated Patek Philippe's Travel Time Legacy

It’s Complicated Patek Philippe’s Travel Time Legacy

Sometimes called “Double Time Zone” or “Travel Time” by the brand, this is a long-standing Patek Philippe complication that adds a subsequent hour hand to the dial intended to show the time in some other time-zone. The additional hand is normally delivered in a way particular from the nearby hours and equipped for being covered up under the neighborhood hour hand when not being used, and Patek mounts a couple of catches in the left case flank to progress or withdraw the additional hour hand. 

A arrangement 1 Patek Philippe 2597, with a twofold marked Tiffany dial. 

For Patek, the first objective of this complication was to make the way toward refreshing to another time-zone as simple as could be expected. Where past travel observes regularly depended on various movements, Patek Philippe went to as a matter of fact Louis Cottier to plan an answer fit for the quickly developing prevalence of aircraft travel. Those of you who have an affection for world-time watches (or read my section in Watches: A Guide By HODINKEE ) will perceive Cottier’s name, as he was the brain behind the introduction of Patek’s first World Timer in the late 1930s. 

By the mid-1950s, Patek needed more alternatives for travelers, and it called upon Cottier to plan a time-zone bouncing watch that could be refreshed ceaselessly the minutes or seconds and without removing the watch from one’s wrist. It wasn’t a GMT or a world timer, but instead a watch intended to refresh rapidly and effectively to another time-zone by means of a catch worked hopping hour hand functionality. 

A arrangement 2 Patek Philippe 2597, note the extra hour hand. 

Now, almost 60 years after the fact, Patek Philippe actually offers this usefulness on a small bunch of watches, and it has even been advanced to bring to the table a superior comprehension of your subsequent time-zone (more on that in a piece). For a brand that doesn’t offer a customary GMT model, the reference 2597 is the beginning of Patek’s most travel-explicit watch but then another Cottier-inferred advancement put to enduring work by the brand. 

And, while this article will zero in on a portion of Patek’s twin hour hand models, Cottier’s first plan, the jaw-droppingly beautiful ref. 2597, was initially brought into the world in 1958 as the “Crosscountry” with a solitary hop set hour hand and rundown cost of $1,000 (in the U.S.). By 1961, Cottier and Patek had refreshed the 2597 to a second arrangement that included double hour hands (with the assistant hour hand in blued steel, appeared above), with the helper hand fit for being hop set by means of little pushers working on it side (similar as the nearby hour hand on the first particular). As referenced over, this should be possible ceaselessly the watch, without taking it off your wrist, and, on the off chance that you weren’t traveling, the helper hour hand could be covered up underneath the neighborhood hour hand. 

An early illustration of a twofold marked 2597. 

This usefulness is gotten from Patek’s 12”’400 HS movement, where “HS” represents Heures Sautantes and means “bouncing hours.” Hand-wound and brandishing 18 gems, the 12”’400 HS shaped the base of the brand’s 1959 Swiss patent (#340191) addressing a “time zone watch.” In a cutting edge setting, the tradition of the 12”’400 lives on in the current-gen type 324 S C FUS which is likely most popular for its utilization in the incredible Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164 . 

The 2597’s hand-wound type 12”’400 movement. Picture through Bonhams.  

As Ben portrayed in past inclusion of the reference , from the beginning of the soonest 2597, the watch was basically a reference 570 Calatrava in a 35.5mm yellow or pink-gold case (created by Antoine Gerlach for Patek Philippe) with a couple of changes for the new movement and its controls. To re-repeat, the Series 1 is generally bound to 1958-1961, with the twin hour hand Series 2 showing up more like 1962. Strangely, in talking with John Reardon of Collectability.com (a fantastic asset on everything Patek Philippe), I discovered that, by the 1970s, Patek was selling redesign packs to retailers that made it conceivable to refresh a solitary hour hand arrangement 1 into a double hour hand arrangement 2. 

A Patek Philippe advertisement from 1958 showing an early reference 2597 (right). Picture given by John Reardon, Collectability.com. 

While these years are sometimes discussed (record-continuing to be what it is), this is the free understanding among the authority community and fills in as something of a notice. Should you come across a 2597 with double hour hands and a creation date before 1961, burrow as profound as possible prior to tossing down any money as there is an opportunity the watch was not initially made with both hour hands, having been refreshed by a Patek retailer sometime later. 

All told, the 2597 is a monstrously cool and uncommon watch that can likewise be discovered twofold endorsed by Tiffany, Gubelin, and others. Qualities are high and moving, with A+ models like this one (offered by Phillips in November of 2017) selling for genuine coin – CHF 540,500 preceding premium . Those inquisitive can look at these parcels, remembering this twofold marked Series 1 model for an arm band offered in 2019 through Bonhams or this more patinated Series 2 model from Phillips sold in May of 2018. 

The catches for controlling the subsequent hour hand, a significant part of the 2597’s inheritance as seen on the cutting edge 5164R. 

While broadly valued by gatherers as quite possibly the best travel watches of its time, the 2597’s ability was exceptionally delayed to venture into different models, with just a small bunch of travel time Patek’s hitting the market in the ensuing 50 years and with changing levels of progress. In 1997, Patek dispatched the 5034 Travel Time, which offered comparative usefulness in a 90s Patek covering ( you can see a white-gold model here ), and the company likewise created a women’s reference, the 4864 ( model here ). The two references utilized a rendition of the Caliber 215 PS which added a sub-seconds show and a 24-hour show for the subsequent time-zone (supportive for AM/PM, however not the brand’s last development of the format). 

In 2001, the 5034 was supplanted by the 5134, a 37mm Travel Time model likewise utilizing the physically wound 215 PS yet offering a more present day take working on this issue and dial execution. Regardless of the impressive stylish flight of the 5034 and 5134 (from that of the 2597), these models actually utilize the essential two-button bouncing second hour hand work. Invested individuals should realize that the 5134 came in a few emphasess (counting platinum and white, yellow, and rose gold), can be discovered twofold marked, and presently can’t seem to build up such an after commonly credited to the Patek authority market. In other words, they cost path not exactly a 2597. For an extra gander at the 5134, look at the accompanying closeout postings, similar to this one from Phillips in November of 2019 , this one from Bonhams in June of 2019 (feels like a low number, no?) , and this platinum and dark dial model that Phillips sold back in November of 2017 . 

Examples of Patek Philippe’s reference 5034 (left) and 5134 (right), both utilizing a modernized articulation of the 2597’s unique usefulness. Images through Philips (1) , (2) . 

Patek Philippe kept on making the 5134 in some shape or structure until 2008 when the model was stopped, and with it, so too the brand’s utilization of this exquisite interpretation of travel time. Fortunately, that changed in 2011 with the dispatch of the magnificent Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A. This was the first time that Patek had fitted the Aquanaut with such a complication, and I absolutely think it picked well. Depending on the combined capacity of the Aquanaut’s energetic and easygoing plan and the usefulness set up initially by the 2597 (however improved with a more explicit method of overseeing AM/PM), the 5164 has become a truly attractive present day reference. In the event that you need to know more, read Ben’s In-Depth with the 5164A or my Hands-On with the 5164R (this post being the otherworldly replacement to that one). 

The current Patek Philippe ref. 5164R. 

The current Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5990 

Notice the two hour hands on the amazingly complex Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G? 

Since 2011, Patek has put its travel time work in a few watches, including the uber Nautilus 5990 (with a chronograph), the consistently cool Calatrava Pilot Travel Time (ref. 5524 and 7234), the large kid 5520P, and even the 6300 Grandmaster Chime (this close by around 19 other complications). 

While this glance at Patek’s Travel Time watches isn’t comprehensive, I do trust it gives some foundation to my number one complication from the brand. The 2597 is effectively among my number one vintage watches, and the 5164 is simply my #1 current Patek Philippe reference. As an enthusiastic devotee of travel complications, I worship the tastefulness and lack of concern of the Cottier-developed 12”’400 and how Patek has, particularly in the previous decade, iterated upon the structure with new models and extra functionality. 

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time ref. 5524G. 

In shutting, I do trust that Patek Philippe keeps on effectively utilizing this capacity and that sometime we see it added once again into the Calatrava family. An advanced 2597 could be an amazing spec, and I need to imagine that the current-day 37mm 5196R would make an incredible beginning stage. Up to that point, I’m simply a fella longing for a world with more hop hour travel watches.

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